replacing plain wire

[Mark Cramer]

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    it would seem not the result of poor wire, but loose bridge  pins.
    Correct, but not just loose bridge pins. Previous tuners frustrated by
false beats had evidently zealously seated (and re-seated) the strings, to
the point they were now well grooved into the bridge cap, creating another
factor (wood contact beyond the b.pin/string termination point), and further
exacerbating the problem.
    Prior to re-conditioning the bridges (please read Bill Spurlock's
excellent article), Stan Kroeker, RPT and I did some tests. We quantified
the false beats (i.e.: 3bps, loud/med/soft, etc.) of every string of every
note in the affected area.
    Then, I carefully restrung C5 and re-tested. There was measureable
improvement, but faint beating was still present in every string.
    i.e.: replacing the string did seem to clean up the false beating, but
not entirely.
    I then de-strung C-5, surfaced the bridge cap, re-cut the notches and
re-placed the bridge pins; "viola" a perfectly clean unison!
    Again, our 'simple' science proved (to our satisfaction) the value of
servicing bearing and termination points, and to some degree, the old string
contributed to the false beats. Re-installing the old string over the
reconditioned bridge unison would have been conclusive, but we never thought
of that at the time.
    I have been re-notching and pinning bridges pursuant to Mr. Bill's
instruction for some time, and am convinced of the benefits. However, if you
have a situation Wim where you wish to tighten bridge pins (beyond tapping),
but see no need to dress the bridge-cap or notch, you may consider the
method of placing a bead of thin epoxy at the base of the pin, and heating
the bridge-pin (soldering iron). This will draw the epoxy in around the pin
with a perfection not otherwise acheivable, IMHO.
        In other words,  you had tapped down the bridge pins, or at most,
removed them, (and only loosened the strings to get at the pins), and
epoxied them in place, you would not have had to restring the piano.
    big question still remains, is there a reason  to restring the whole
piano?

    Plese recall the elongated broken strings, we've already seen some great
posts on this, especially the one about a controlled string deformation. You
may also source Dr. Sandersons experiments with swedged (otherwise
flattened) core wire.
    Finally, with automakers suggesting new cars may go a lifetime without
changing sparkplugs, it should seem ironic that makers of quality pianos
openly accept full string replacement as routine. In fact, I've found them
most helpful in understanding how often their instruments should be
restrung, though few promote the sale of OEM plain wire. (?)
    Perhaps the piano-makers might be your next best source of information?
    best of luck!
    Mark Cramer,
    Brandon University


    Wim



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