Seen them gold lacquered with P.U, not really so bad looking but the A.... forget to ream and clean the holes, so dull strings .... Isaac O > -----Message d'origine----- > De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De > la part de Tim > Coates > Envoye : mercredi 16 octobre 2002 05:16 > A : College and University Technicians > Objet : Re: buffing agraffes > > > Mark, > > The steps you didn't mention in the method I suggested: > re-sizing the holes > and lacquering. No agraffe rebuild is done correctly > without doing that. I > don't like the dull and powdery looking finish either. > That's why I clear > coat. I made a special point about lacquering. If you > where to compare the > two methods correctly the only difference is one > buffs/polishes and one > doesn't. > > It seems you want the high polish look, so these are mute > points anyway. No > offense taken, just pointing out what the true differences are. > > Tim Coates > Wapin Co., LLP > > > > Mark Cramer wrote: > > > I did try bead-blasting as recommended by Tim Coates. > This method gets the > > job done quickly, gets into the corners nicely and leaves > a very uniform, > > matte surface finish. Note; Mason & Hamlin mention this > finishing detail of > > their action frames in their promotional brochures. > > > > The overall finish is a bit dull and powdery looking, > (similar to metallic > > gold paint, without the clear coat)and could (as you > wish) be done without > > removing the agraffres from the plate. However, > steel-wooling provides more > > brilliance. > > > > The goal again was to provide new appearance to original > agraffes, in the > > somewhat rare instances where new replacements are unavailable. > > > > For the high lustre finish, Trevor Nelson RPT suggested > the very hard > > buffing wheel offered by Lee Valley tools for chisel > honing. This became the > > solution I was looking for; it is very quick, and here is > how it works for > > us: > > > > 1.) If badly tarnished, painted, etc.), pre-clean with > Tarn-X, or even > > bead-blasting > > > > 2.) buff on the hard felt wheel w/red tripoli > > > > 3.) re-size holes w/ jobber bit (thanks Roger J.) > > > > 4.) polish clean, and lacquer > > > > 5.) point the finished product out with great pride to > anyone who will give > > audience to your ranting! :>) > > > > Mark Cramer, > > Brandon University > > > > _______________________________________________ > > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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