Hey Ed, I use Thin CA in the field and apply it to the base of the pin, _away_ from the string (tiny amount with needle nose applicator) with the strings on and at pitch. I have also tapped the pins down _slightly_ deeper (Roger Jolly's suggestion?) and that worked well. I bought a nail countersink/punch at Ace Hardware that has a concave tip to grab the top of the pin w/out slipping off. I have used the epoxy,too when restringing w/old bridges/pins. I would think epoxy would be better than CA (less brittle and apt to not break free), but more work/expense. Hope you are well. Lance Lafargue, RPT Mandeville, LA New Orleans Chapter, PTG lancelafargue@bellsouth.net 985.72P.IANO -----Original Message----- From: owner-caut@ptg.org [mailto:owner-caut@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Ed Sutton Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 4:30 PM To: caut@ptg.org Subject: Re: CA, bridge pins Mark- Same question here. Are you doing this with the string in place under tension, or do you lower tension and move the string out of the way, and if so, how long do you wait before putting the string back and tuning? Thanks. Ed Sutton Mark Cramer wrote: > > Use a thin viscosity epoxy (West-System), place a drop at the base of each > bridge-pin, then heat the pin with a soldering iron. The heat thins the > epoxy and draws it down into the hole. > > In slow motion; you heat the pin and watch the epoxy bead; it does nothing, > you wait, then all of a sudden the bead shrinks as it's "slurped" down the > hole. Remove the heat, you don't want the epoxy to boil.
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