Jim, On the assumption you are matching double helix loops with a coil finish (the most common, looks like bass string hitch loops): 1) You need a fixed substitute for the hitch pin. A large cup hook mounted to the edge of a table works. Or a headless nail held in a vice. Whatever it is, it needs to be positioned so that there are no obstructions in front of it (to allow free movement of your hands). It should be of a large enough diameter so that the loop formed can easily fit over the hitch pin later. (I mostly use a cup hook screwed into the end of a dowel. I attach this with a spring clamp to the edge of my cheap, metal harpsichord tool/supply case). 2) Pull the wire around the dummy pin, so that it goes completely around and crosses at a right angle. You need enough "waste length" to get a good grip. 6 to 10 inches should suffice. Hold the wire in that position with one hand - the hand that you will use throughout to hold the speaking length. You will need to have decided whether the waste length goes over or under based on the direction you want to the coils to go (look at one of the loops you are matching). 3) Take the hand that is not holding the wire, and place it over or under the other hand (depending whether the waste length is over or under the speaking length) and grab the waste length. Holding the wire taut with both hands, and so that the string forms a right angle where it meets, rotate both arms in a full circle around one another (easier to show than describe this sort of thing), keeping the wire taut and at right angle at all times, so that it actually makes clear and sharp bends/coils around itself (each bends around the other). If you have been successful, you should be able to let go with one hand, and the wire will pretty much stay put. 4) Repeat the above as many times as needed to create the number of coils desired. Steady, even movement, with wire held taut at all times, and maintaining the 90 degree angle between wire ends, will allow for even, neat appearance. 5) For the finish coil, hold the speaking length of the wire taut with one hand, pulling straight toward yourself. With the other hand, pull the waste length of wire neatly around the speaking length. It is essential that the wire be held taut at all times, and a bit of finesse is needed to start the coil evenly. Again, the waste length hand lets go, and is moved around the speaking length hand to grab the waste length again. And you make as many tight, even coils as needed to match the original. 6) Cut the wire, leaving a short segment (match originals), which will rest on the hitch pin rail to help assure the coils don't unwind. It is necessary to plan so that the final direction of that bit of waste length is under the speaking length. A caution - don't overdo tightness of coils. If they are too tight, you will have tail breakage. But if they are not tight enough, they'll want to unwind. You have to use good judgment here. Hope this helps. If it is unclear, please say so and I'll try to explain better. It's much easier to demonstrate than describe. I'll also note that if you have a helper, you can use a dowel with a cuphook in the end. One person holds the wire, tautly, at a 90 degree angle, while the other rotates the dowel. With good teamwork, this can be a very successful method of making coils (it's what the Hubbard manual suggests). It does require a second person. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico James A Busby wrote: > List, > Does anyone have a website or instructions, tricks, etc. for making hitch pin > loops for harpsichords? My loops are functional, but they don't look uniform and > even. Thanks. > > (BTW, I know you can buy them premade, but I now have 4 harpsichords and it > gets expensive to buy prefabs.) > > Jim Busby > BYU > > _______________________________________________ > caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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