damper lever ht.

[Fred Sturm]

Wim,
	If these are short lever underlevers (probably are), there will be excess 
friction even if you optimize placement of the underlever centers. Might 
not be worth the effort. Best to see how far off the line you are before 
plunging in.
	The pitman is that (usually) brass dowel between trapwork and tray, that 
rides in the bushed hole in the keybed.
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico

--On Thursday, September 11, 2003 12:36 PM -0400 Wimblees@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/11/03 11:26:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
> marysmith@mail.utexas.edu writes:
>
>
> SO even
> if you lower the tray,the flanges might still need to be at 1-1/2" to get
> proper lift. But, as Fred and Eric have correctly pointed out, you really
> need to break down and replace the back action, and convert that rascal
> pitman. If you're not ready to replace the back action, for budget or
> time  reasons, then replace the key end felt again, see if you can wiggle
> the  underlever height a bit, and convert the pitman anyway.
>
>
>
> Let me see if I can understand this.  I realize the angle of the lever,
> as Fred sais, is "the angle of the levers as the manner in which the two
> arcs intercept - arcs of underlever versus arc of key". That is why the
> lever is digging into the lifter felt. That is why I want to lower the
> tray, to reduce that angle, and at the same time lower the height of the
> lever to 1 1/2".
>
> But isn't the pitman the block of wood into which the tray is attached by
> the pin? So if I lower the pivot point, I will lower the tray. The
> question I have is, how much should I lower the pivot point to lower the
> height of the lever an 1/8"? And I should, I presume, cut off the block
> and redrill the screw holes, right?
>
> Wim