Hi Fred, thanks for the answer, My concern is that as the slack of the strings get out in 1 to 5 years, depending of the PR and stabilization method employed, so refraining the 'free' move of tension from below the bridge will possibly add to the bridge roll. Seem to me that if one try to get most of the slack off the strings at once, (like with the so called Klaus Fenner method) it may be advisable to lock the bridge with some setup, clamps for instance to avoid ANY rolling motion. Then after the string have been rendered, the bend could be made. I have to think about it. Indeed I made bends also for a long time, and was persuaded it is good. It cleans the terminations, it help to stabilize the first tunings , indeed, but what happen to the bridge geometry during the next first years, as we all know if not tuned the strings will loose more than a quarter tone the first year ? The theory tell us that new strings if not forced to, are getting stable in 5 years, then they don't loose tension anymore due to the string give, then they are the stiffest, and one step higher they goes in a semi plastic zone, then plastic, then they begin to break. As a tuner 'knows' when the string is prone to break it can be useful to get out of the elastic zone as soon as possible, and then we only have to maintain the tuning, not raising to pitch before tuning , it is an important time waste avoided (and very probably better for all the bends BTW. Just some ideas I have in mind actually. One more incomprehensive thread that probably you'll get the idea nowadays ! Best Regards. Isaac OLEG -----Message d'origine----- De : caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]De la part de Fred Sturm Envoye : mercredi 31 mars 2004 21:45 A : College and University Technicians Objet : RE: Tuning stability --On Monday, March 29, 2004 11:09 PM +0200 Isaac OLEG <oleg-i@noos.fr> wrote: > Fred, I believe that if you warm the string rubbing them with a piece > of wood , you'll get a very fast stabilisation, and you can avoid to > bend them, bend can take place later I guess, is not it better? Isaac, My experience tells me that I should make the positive bends in the wire soon after installing it for two reasons: First, this will stabilize pitch faster. My sense is that the process of the wire "making the bends itself" over time is a very large proportion of the cause for pitch drop of new wire. On new pianos from the factory, for instance, I find that heavy pounding can drop pitch by 50 cents or more. Not true of pianos I have restrung and made those positive bends. I interpret that to mean that the pounding is largely helping to create those bends. Second, the tone becomes much clearer, with a less "fuzzy" pitch. This difference is pretty readily apparent. Pull to pitch without making bends and listen. Make bends and pull to pitch, and listen. I do like to make sure pitch is as close to standard as possible when making the bends. Hence, 25 cents sharp before making the bends from bridge to hitch pin. Making the bends lowers pitch by 25 cents or a bit more. So I pull sharp again before making the front bends, which leaves the string close to pitch. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico _______________________________________________ caut list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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