S&S D Soundboard removal

Mark Cramer Cramer@BrandonU.CA
Wed, 11 Feb 2004 12:45:06 -0600


You're probably going to have to use heat Scott, and work a small section at
a time.

A common problem with 'heat-release' adhesives is if you let the released
area contact and cool down, it will stick together again. :>(

Soaking solutions are generally useless for these, but for some reason
'steam' made from water with a surfactant added seems to help.

I have a very thin prying tool (for door-casing/baseboard (removal)with a 2"
wide blade, it is quite helpful, and a 3/4" tool for the rib notches.

Heat and/or steam the joint, gently seperate the joint with the pry-bar,
then leave a finishing nail in the gap to keep it open and move on.

Better still, call Christian Bolduc +1 (888) 397-5057.

While he was working for Schimmel, he had several factory boards (modern
adhesive) to replace. He will know how.

BTW, while it's just plain good harmless fun to bash a board out with a 2 x
4, a good all-in-one-peice removal technique leaves very little surface
preparation of rim, etc., later on.

I recently re-strung/pin-blocked a small grand plagued with sound-board/rim
delamination.

There was no intention to replace the soundboard, but I was able to
carefully pop it out (in- one-peice), clean the gluing-surfaces and
re-install it quite efficiently. Very satisfying work.

best regards,

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University




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