Over Christmas break, I ran into an old regulating problem, where once sharp key-dip was set, the naturals "bottomed-out" on the sharp's front-rail punchings. This typically happens when original ivory has been replaced with over-thickness plastic key-tops ("Chicklets" as Ted Sambell calls them) without milling down the key-sticks to compensate. On this action however (a lovely 7' Heintzman c.1959), the key-set was "original" (ebony & ivory), and I could find nothing unusual in measurements/observations to indicate why. And I never did solve the riddle, but here's what turned out to be a nice solution: A strip of maple veneer (cabinet-maker's edge banding) added .025" to the key at the point of punching contact. A warm iron activates the glue and makes for a very secure lamination. Removing .025" in paper from every sharp's front-rail stack preserved key-dip dimensions, and the punchings no longer interfere with key-dip of naturals. I think it took Jeremy about 1 1/2 hours to veneer all the sharps, sand them flush, remove surplus paper-punchings and replace the stack. We really liked this repair! Though we've never had the adhesive fail in use, it is reversible. Nonetheless, I think we're going to call this modification "permanent." BTW, this afternoon I've just looked in on one of our old "beater" practice-room grands to see what a day's TLC might do. Turns out it has a shiny set of "Chicklets" complete with overhang on three sides of the key, and sharps that disappear into the abyss.... Mark Cramer, Brandon University With glue
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