This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment At this point I don't think I can add much to the discussion. Ed, Stan, = and Cy have hit the nail on the head, well at least glued the shank to = the head. I will mention that a knurler and scoring the shank are two = different things. Personally I knurl for size and glue adherence and I = open a hole in the molding for pressure release and all the good stuff = Ed Sutton and Cy so eruditely clarified. Then I glue with Tite Bond Wood = Molding Glue and wipe the excess off the top of the molding with a damp = rag. My boring is slightly loose to accomodate in-the-piano installation = alignment. BTW don't forget stike point adjustment with the action = bolts. I dry fit (use paper shims in the hole if necessary) the treble = hammers and adjust first and then check after gluing. It's the big one. = I doubt that there is perceptible tonal variation with the "score the = shank method" or that the shank integrity is interrupted to any = significant degree if the technique is consistent, however, I just don't = like that way because usually my shanks are already in the butts screwed = to the rail and the risk of damaging the action center seems too great = to me, and besides the little hole in the top of the molding works so = well. Just MHO. Chris Solliday ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Paul Chick (Earthlink)=20 To: 'College and University Technicians'=20 Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 12:15 PM Subject: RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers =20 Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers =20 In a message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time, = jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca writes: I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild = magazine, a=20 gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape. I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size = of the=20 shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the hole. You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the = point was=20 out. John M. Ross I inherited from my dad a shank knurler. It is a disk with groves in = it, that is attached to a crank. It has a curved piece of metal parallel = to the disk, that can be adjusted with a set screw, to allow the = distance between the disk and the curved metal piece to vary. (for = different shank sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach it to a = bench with screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked for = Stark.=20 =20 I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks. When I do just one, I = use a pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank.=20 =20 Wim=20 =20 I've been using a shank knurler from Schaaf for about 25 years. I = think it's still available. It's adjusted to size the shanks to a = uniform diameter as well as knurl the shank. When glue is applied (any = water based glue), the shanks swell back almost to their original = diameter, making a very nice fit without excessive glue squeeze out. =20 Paul C ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/68/46/d5/38/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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