Wim: I used to use that method, but one time the bushings were particularly stubborn, so much so that steaming out the bushings was also loosening the glue joint holding the button to the key. Since then I've used the felt-plugs-in-the-mortise method. I like that the bushings come out easily, but it's also easy to get too much water in the plug and key. I've also tried dampening the bushings and the using the hot (as in soldering iron hot) brass bushing remover. I didn't have much luck with that. What are the opinions on the best bushing removal method? Are there any other methods out there that are less apt to cause trouble? I get a good final result, but I'm just not very happy with how I get there. Also the big reason why I like hot hide glue is that it provides a good, long-lasting glue joint that lets go when you want it to. In a university setting that's a great feature. I hope this isn't too basic for this esteemed list. Richard West On Nov 6, 2006, at 10:59 AM, Willem Blees wrote: > Quoting Cy Shuster <cy at shusterpiano.com>: > >> How do you get 'em out when you rebush? That's the downside of >> Titebond... >> >> --Cy-- > > I use the old ironand wet cloth method, and I have an easier time > getting busings out when I've used titebond than some of the other > glues some of the factories use. > > Wim > > >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Willem Blees" <wblees at bama.ua.edu> >> To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> >> Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:17 PM >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] RE : key bushings >> >> >>> Why bother with sticks and brushes? I use tightbond and put it on >> with >>> my fingers. >>> >>> Wim >> > > > Willem Blees, RPT > Piano Tuner/Technician > School of Music > University of Alabama > Tuscaloosa, AL USA
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