Fred- First I make the loop on the short piece. Then slip it over the long piece and slide it back a bit. Then make the "counter loop" in the long piece. Then slide the short piece into place. Going back to the short piece: I straighten the coil as best as I can, then grab the becket end with vise grips and turn it around into a loop. Trying to bend back and straighten the becket bend can weaken or break the wire; much better to continue the bend into a loop. Then when the splice is made, I make a new becket and coil on the end of the string. Ed > >From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of >Fred Sturm >Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 10:09 AM >To: ed440 at mindspring.com; College and University Technicians >Subject: Re: [CAUT] CAUT String Repair Class....was unusual repair > > > >Hi Ed, > > I wonder if I could ask for a wee bit of clarification. I am >with you except for step 5. In step 5, do you make your loop in the long >wire, then insinuate the becket through it, following with the rest of >the short wire? Or do you have some technique for creating the loop in >the long wire "around" the short wire? (BTW, I would add to your >instructions for 1 and 2 "while applying tension to the strings - >pulling on them to start unwinding the coil" or something a bit better >worded). > > I have never considered using the short piece of existing >wire, myself, thinking it too much trouble, and that the difference in >"stretchability" wouldn't be that big compared to a new piece of wire. >Of course, you waste some time going to get that piece of wire, but I >don't carry around my splicing tools on my tuning rounds at the U, so >it isn't an extra trip for me. But it's a trick that might come in handy >some day. > > FWIW, a normal splice takes me a bit less time than a full >string replacement. Once I read Bill Spurlock's article, maybe 15 years >ago, I became an immediate expert <G>. > >Regards, > >Fred Sturm > >University of New Mexico > >fssturm at unm.edu > > > > > > > > > >On Feb 23, 2007, at 7:58 PM, ed440 at mindspring.com wrote: > > > > > >Sid- > > > >This is for strings that break at the capo bar: > > > >1) Back off the pin with the long string two turns. > > > >2) Back off the pin with the short piece 1 and 1/2 turns. > > > >3) Remove the short piece of wire and straighten it. Don't straighten >the becket bend. Grab it in vice grips and make a loop, as close to the >wire diameter as you can. Bend the loop up almost 90 degrees to the >wire. (You are reversing the short piece. What used to be the becket >is now the splice.) > > > >4) Go to the back of the piano. Grab the long wire in the vice grips >and pull it straight back, hard. Straighten out the hitch pin bend. > > > >5) Slip the short loop on the long wire and make the second loop on the >long wire, very close to the end. > > > >6) Grab the end of the short piece in the vice grips and pull the loop >tight (still toward the back of the piano.) > > > >7) Cut the excess side points of the splice close to the loops. > > > >8) Pull the wire straight to the hitch pin and bend it around. > > > >9) Feed the wire under the capo bar, make a coil on a dummy pin and snap >it onto the tuning pin. > > > >10) Begin to add tension on the splice side of the string, watching to >make sure the splice clears the v-bar and comes out on the front side. >(Both loops of the splice must be clear, not just one.) > > > >11) Snap the string between the appropriate bridge pins and space at the >front bearings. (Loosen tension a little if needed to get the wire >between the bridge pins.) > > > >12) Pull to pitch, settle the string (pinch becket, pull up coils, tap >at the hitch pin) and pull to pitch again. (If the concert starts in 5 >minutes, pull a little bit over pitch on the "good" side, and a little >bit more over pitch on the spliced side. Or if you prefer, wedge off >the repair and come back in a day.) > > > >Once you suspend your disbelief this repair is.....a cinch. > > > >Ed > > > >-----Original Message----- > > From: Sid Blum <piano at sover.net> > > Sent: Feb 23, 2007 5:46 PM > > To: ed440 at mindspring.com, College and University Technicians ><caut at ptg.org> > > Subject: Re: [CAUT] CAUT String Repair Class....was unusual >repair > > > > Ed- > > > > This is the first I've heard about splicing treble wire. Please >explain. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Sid > > > > > > This thread leads me to think there needs to be a class >in advanced > > string repair for CAUTs (and others). > > > > My experience has been that splicing almost always >produces the best > > repair. It stabilizes quickly and has the right timbre >to match the > > other strings. This includes bass strings spliced in the >speaking > > length and treble strings spliced in the front duplex. >It is also > > the fastest repair. > > > > These repairs aren't hard to learn, given a bit of >commitment to practice. > > > > The Technical Exam Source Book has an extensive article >on splicing. > > It's a good place to start. > > > > Correct repairs of loose tuning pins and correct string >winding and > > seating procedures also need to be addressed. I am >doing some > > contract repairs at a college where many treble strings >have been > > incorrectly replaced. It is a tuning stability >nightmare, and I am > > beginning to think it is a waste of time to try to >stabilize a > > string that was improperly installed to begin with. > > > > Ed Sutton > > > > > > -- > > Sid Blum > > sid at sover.net > > > > >
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