Ah, _that_ radius. A compound, inverted radius to create an actual radius in the agraffe. Thanks. Brain not functioning at full capacity due to cobwebs accumulated over the holidays <G>. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm at unm.edu On Jan 8, 2008, at 2:23 PM, Alan McCoy wrote: > Fred, > > The difference is the same as the difference between the profile of > a flat > head wood screw with its 60 degree angled head going into the > straight shank > on the one hand, and a bugle-headed screw like sheetrock or decking > screws > where there is a smooth curve from the top of the head to the shank. > > Alan > > >> From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> >> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org >> > >> Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 16:18:07 -0700 >> To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" >> <caut at ptg.org> >> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >> >> Hi Alan, >> What does "radiused" mean in this context? I know what the PIanotek >> one is like (have one), and would appreciate a more descriptive >> account of the difference. Judging from the picture, it maybe has to >> do with multiple cutting flutes? >> Regards, >> Fred Sturm >> University of New Mexico >> fssturm at unm.edu >> >> >> >> On Jan 7, 2008, at 12:21 PM, Alan McCoy wrote: >> >>> Hi Don, >>> >>> The reamer you have is probably from Pianotek and if so, it is not >>> radiused. >>> Than one actually has a countersunk-type profile. The one from MSC >>> is truly >>> radiused. If you are really into polishing after reaming, a faster >>> way to go >>> (than Revenko-Jones) is with a dremel and a polishing bit you can >>> get from >>> Wigets.com. It is a teardrop shape and a pink color and feels sort >>> of like >>> an eraser. Sorry I don't have the link here at school. >>> >>> The reaming can definitely be done in the home. Hold the drill in >>> your hand, >>> and also hold the agraffe in your hand and go slowly. By doing it in >>> your >>> hands there is give and you are much less likely to chew up the >>> agraffe. The >>> whole set can be done this way very effectively - reaming and >>> polishing - in >>> maybe an hour. >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> >>>> From: Mark Cramer <cramer at brandonu.ca> >>>> Reply-To: "College and University Technicians <caut at ptg.org>" <caut at ptg.org >>>>> >>>> Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 12:22:39 -0600 >>>> To: 'College and University Technicians' <caut at ptg.org> >>>> Subject: Re: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >>>> >>>> Actually no Don, I don't recommend the drill press. The bit can >>>> grab and >>>> make a mess (take my word, or do I need to send photo? ;>) >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> The bit will self-center in the hole, and I will suggest once more >>>> that the >>>> variable speed drill with slip clutch is the ticket. You want to >>>> hold the >>>> drill with a loose grip and light pressure, so that if the bit >>>> should catch, >>>> the impact is wasted, rather than transferred to the agraffe. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> i.e.: the bit needs to be able to "chatter" if necessary, to >>>> prevent a >>>> sudden calamity. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> So yes, you do need to remove the agraffe and be able to hold it >>>> flat to >>>> your work-surface. (my simple holding fixture works great, sorry >>>> the >>>> description may be a bit vague) >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> In any case, I agree this is not a comfortable repair to do on- >>>> site. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Good luck! >>>> >>>> Mark Cramer, >>>> >>>> Brandon University >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _____ >>>> >>>> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf >>>> Of Donald >>>> McKechnie >>>> Sent: January 7, 2008 11:41 AM >>>> To: caut at ptg.org >>>> Subject: [CAUT] Mason & Hamlin agraffes >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Mark, David, Ron & Ric, >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Thanks for your replies to my questions. I just spoke to my >>>> customer and she >>>> has agreed to try replacing the strings on the note. If I can get >>>> the >>>> agraffe out without any fuss I will try polishing the holes as >>>> shown by Paul >>>> in the March 05 Journal. Trying to use the reamer during in home >>>> service >>>> could get a bit dicey. It needs to be perfectly still, preferably >>>> at a drill >>>> press to ream correctly. Paul's point about the reamers leaving >>>> striations >>>> is a good one. The buffing method is more work but perhaps better >>>> for in >>>> home service. We'll give it a try and hopefully this will work for >>>> now. She >>>> has not complained of other notes having this buzz but I would bet >>>> that will >>>> come up at another time. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Thanks again, >>>> >>>> Don >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Don McKechnie >>>> >>>> Piano Technician >>>> >>>> Ithaca College >>>> >>>> dmckech at ithaca.edu >>>> >>>> 607-274-3908 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> > >
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