Thanks, sounds like the way to go. >Jeff, >With the pins in, and using thinest CA, there is no excess. If one does not >apply too many times. >Two times or passes works well for me. The third pass tends to leave CA that >needs to be wiped off and that is a no win event. O(( Two passes soaks into >the wood. First pass immediately and the second after 5 minutes or so. >Joe Goss RPT >Mother Goose Tools >imatunr at srvinet.com >www.mothergoosetools.com >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jeff Farris" <Jfarris at mail.utexas.edu> >To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> >Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 11:49 AM >Subject: Re: [CAUT] bridge cap sanding > > >> >>I like the idea behind epoxying the pins - no pin upward movement >> > >> >If you don't epoxy or CA them in, you'll most likely have the same >> >false beats you had before you restrung it, because you didn't fix >> >the original problem. If you do epoxy them in, you won't because you >> >did. The bridge cap will still move the strings up and *down* the >> >string some, but not quite as much as before. Strings don't stay up >> >bridge pins. >> > >> >>- but is there no concern with removing them in the future? >> > >> >They'll still pull out if you need to. >> > >> >>Otherwise, I guess you'd have to seat the bridge pins every tuning, huh? >> >>Jeff F >> > >> >No, because seating strings doesn't fix anything. The strings aren't >> >up the pins. >> >Ron N >> >> >> >> No, I actually meant the pins, not the strings, but I guess them, >> too. Anyway, I would like to CA glue them in place. Would you drive >> them in first and then add the glue (trying to not make a mess) or >> what? And what thickness. >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> -- >> Jeff Farris >> Piano Technician >> School of Music >> UT Austin >> mailto; jfarris at mail.utexas.edu >> 512-471-0158 -- Jeff Farris Piano Technician School of Music UT Austin mailto; jfarris at mail.utexas.edu 512-471-0158
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