Fred et al, Thanks for the input. I ended up rehanging the bass section with new shanks, which worked out well. I think the original problem came about because the first trials I set for the bass section were not right. The second time I installed them in the piano, which of course helped. The Abel hammers have a great sound, by the way. The customer was very pleased with the improvement. Dan Rembold Auburn University --- On Mon, 7/20/09, Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> wrote: > From: Fred Sturm <fssturm at unm.edu> > Subject: Re: [CAUT] Vertical hammer installation > To: caut at ptg.org > Date: Monday, July 20, 2009, 12:11 PM > Yes, and you have a longer glue > joint (more solid, less likely to become loose). It's > easy - use a brad point bit that chucks in a combination > handle. With care, hand turn the bit until the brad tip just > penetrates the top of the molding. That gives you consistent > depth, and a nice glue relief hole as a bonus. The caveat is > you need a firm and steady hand, so you don't let the > bit wander around in the hole and make it less precise in > angle. But I find I can do that holding the hammer in one > hand, the bit/combo handle in the other, as long as I am > focused and attentive. > Regards,Fred > SturmUniversity of New Mexicofssturm at unm.edu > > > On Jul 17, 2009, at 12:37 PM, Mccoy, Alan > wrote: > Hi Dan, > > If it were me, I’d bore them deeper for alignment as well > as glue relief. > > Alan >
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