[CAUT] New shanks from WNG/boring issues

[Daniel Gurnee]

Paul,

Roll the end of the shanks under a medium bastard or mill-bastard  
file.  Don't bear too hard, that will diminish the shank for a  
possibly loose hammer.  Then with glue on the shank, spin the hammer  
onto the shank forming a glue collar.  I wish you well,

Daniel Gurnee, HSU Retired.

On Aug 19, 2010, at 3:37 PM, Paul T Williams wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have these new shanks from WNG and ordered a set of Wally's  
> naturals which they bored at exactly what WNG suggested was 0.185"  
> or (4.7mm).  shanks are 4.7mm and the same for the boring hole...so  
> guess what- they won't go on the shank!. I talked to one of the  
> folks at Brooks and he suggests reaming the hammer a bit to get some  
> play between hammer and shank.  More widened toward the shank end of  
> the hammer hole than the back.   these won't even slide on the  
> shank, so I'll need to ream or re-bore.  I'm leaning toward reaming  
> as John at Brooks suggested this to make the hole closer to to same  
> at the back of the boring hole with room for the glue at the front  
> of the hole. He's tried several attacks, and WNG keeps changing the  
> deck. I'm now very nervous of where to go, but need y'all's input on  
> what you're finding.  Now with the NEW SHANKS< NOT SCORED IN ANY WAY  
> type.  just smooth to the end.
>
> What have you all found to be the best solution to this? I'm not  
> going forward until I hear some of your stories.
>
> These are the newest shanks with no roughing needed at the tail end  
> of the shank.
>
> It sounds like this is still in developement with us to determine  
> the right procedures, and I'm a bit nervous with a $400+ set of  
> hammers...even with free shanks.  I want to get it right the first  
> time
>
> Thanks for more input.
> Paul

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