Chickering Strikes Again

[Scott Thile]

Gorden Large writes:

>I'm replacing a block on a small, 1915 Chickering Grand.  (There are two
>blocks, actually.)  The flange on the plate is bi-level.  This is kind of a
>pain, but what's worse is that there are two posts cast in the plate in the
>treble web. (The blocks are bolted to the plate from underneath)  The treble
>block has to be drilled to fit over these posts, but I can't drill them to
>the exact size of the posts because that would put them out of position by
>the time I got the blasted thing fitted.  So I have to drill them oversize so
>the block doesn't touch them before it's fitted to the flange.

I do not normaly use epoxy resin for fitting blocks (in fact I hate epoxy),
but last time I
replaced one of these Chickering blocks I used it.  Just get the blocks fit
close with
the post holes oversize, with the plate upside down, spray a  release agent
on the
plate, clamp the blocks to the  plate and flow the resin into the
flange/block area
and also around the treble posts. (If your post holes are not  drilled
through the
block, consider drilling a small hole through so you can introduce the resin
while
the block is clamped in position. It *is* a mess but works well.

>I'd also like to know what kinds of concoctions people use on the plate
>flanges to mark the high spots on the block.  (I'm using an alcohol and
>graphite mix.  It works, but sure makes a mess)

I use blue carpenters (or contractors) chaulk.  Comes powdered or in stick
form.
I just use it dry.

Scott
Scott E. Thile, RPT
Piano-Instrument Technician
Department of Music,Murray State University
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P.O. Box 9, Murray, KY 42071, Ph:  502-762-4396
Email:  sethile@msumusik.mursuky.edu