>Thanks for the prompt reply! I only changed the drop to a scant
>1/16th" below let-off, actually adjusting drop so that the rep
>contacts the drop screw the same time that the tender contacts the
>let-off button, so I'll go back and change the drop as you suggested.
Let me know how it works. All things being equal (hah!) with letoff and drop
at 1/8" the tender and drop screws should still make their contacts
simultaneously.
>The springs were done on the weak side.
How about the rep lever flanges? For some reason I see a lot of Asian parts
where the pins are too tight in the felt and too loose in the wood in all
the flanges, which may complicate things. Two or three grams on a rep flange
isn't enough for good performance at this level.
>But it still puzzles me. I would think that the flexing you speak of
>is not the cause, because let-off is done slowly, which would mean
>veritibly no flexing.
Well, when setting letoff visually there is no flexing at all. Surely dead
weight on the end of a thin wooden shank bouncing off a string will cause
SOME flex and we're working with extremely high tolerances as it is. I
doubt it's a major cause of this effect, but it's all additive at this point.
>I'm thinking that the shape of the knuckle
>might be the cause, or, as I mentioned earlier, bevelling the jack
>top on the hammer side. I would like to get at the symptom.
The piano most fresh in my mind is the '67 D I mentioned. It had fairly new
Hamburg shanks and flanges with NY hammers, but some of the knuckles had
rosewood cores. Next time I see it I'll check to see if those notes with NY
knuckles were more affected. Other than the core wood and the skin colour
the dimensions were the same.
John
John Musselwhite, RPT Calgary, Alberta Canada
musselj@cadvision.com sysop@67.cambo.cuug.ab.ca
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