The metal tuning pin insert shims.

[EHILBERT@midd.middlebury.edu]

Steve,
The approach you mention might work okay.  Another option is to use the
next larger size tuning pin from the one currently in question without
using any inserts.  There are never any hard and fast rules when a piano is
no longer in its virgin state of being.

Keith A. McGavern, RPT
kam544@ionet.net
Oklahoma Baptist University in Shawnee



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Subj:   Re: The metal tuning pin insert shims.
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Steve,
        If you decide to use the metal inserts, you would do well to go to a
smaller pin, as you suggested.  We see a few of them up here in the North-
East, but it is usually felt that they are used by less competent technicians.
That of course is a value judgement.  Still they ugly
looking in the piano, and don't always work well.
        The wood shim is acceptable and is actually known to be used in
factories from time to time when they have a loose pin for If you like being classy, the British
apparently use Rosewood shims - or so I
just read in their most recent Journal.

        The oversized pin can also be useful, unless the cause of the problem
is a crack in the pinblock, rather than just a worn hole.  If you have a crack
then you will likely just spread the crack more whe oversize pin.  Sort
of like splitting wood using wedge.  Cracks can often be spotted by noting if
other pins in the area are loose and in line with the one you are working on.
Most especially be cautious of the first row of pins closest to the speaking
length.  If you see loose pins on every other note in that first row, you
almost certainly have a crack forming in the block.  Put in that larger size
pin and you will have a larger crack moving quickly,

      I prefer using the sandpaper shim myself.  Newton Tuner Jim said that
he tried the sandpaper both facing the block and the pin with no noticable
difference.  I would disagree.  I believe the paper should always have the abr

abrasive biting into the wood not the pin.  Otherwise the pin and the paper
will turn together in the hole instead of just the pin turning in the now
smaller hole.
      Also, if there is any question of a crack, then i would suggest
putting the sandpaper in so that it bridges the gap, thus making the hole
smaller without acting like a wedge.  Generally that will mean puttiong the
paper in the hole at either the 3:00 or 9:00 position, not at 6:00 or 12:00.
You will also find that you generally only need to go about 1/3 of the
circumference of the hole, not all the way around as you would do with a
metal insert.
      Another reason for putting the abrasive side toward the block has
to do with reinstalling the pin.Curve the sandpaper to go into the hole,
put the pin in the hole and tap it in with a hammer.  With the abrasive side
toward the wood the paper stays intact.  The other direction and it would be
inclined to tear it off and push the strip ahead of the pin into the bottom of the hole.  By
the Way, trying to turn the pin down into the hole will also just
tear the paper off.

      One last approach you may wish to consider is the use of an epoxy.

You can use both 5 minute epoxy in the hole to coat the hole and help fill
any cracks, or an epoxy filler to completely fill the hole and then later
redrill the hole for the pin.  If you use the 5 minute epoxy, put some into the hole and work
it all around.  Then drive the tuning pin into the hole and put
the string on.  Tap the pin to final height.  Thenb keep going back to the pin every few minutes
for the next half hour to an hour and give the pin just a
turn to keep it from being glued solid to the block.  One advantage to this
system is that driving the pin in will force the glue into any existing cracks
and may help to stabilize that area some.

      Good luck and any questions about the above, plese feel free to contact me privately as
well.






Ed Hilbert, RPT
Vermont Chapter