Milky Satin Finish

[GABRIEL ZWIERSKI]

Randy et al.
      The easiest way to find out if the milkiness is on the surface (IMHO, all
the polyester satin finishes that I have seen have looked milky to me) or in the
body of the finish is to buff up a section of a small part (cheekblock, keyslip
etc. (The reason being it is easier to restore a small section on a small part
to look 'factory' than a section of,say, the top !-))).  If the milkiness goes
away, its the surface (Rerub the piano time).  If it doesn't, it's the finish
(Strip the piano time).  It could also be either in the sealer coat (still strip
the piano time) or be caused by finish separation (again, strip the piano time).
      Polyester CAN be stripped. There are 2 methods that I know,  only 1
(usually) is really usable for stripping pianos.  Polyester is gelcoat (yep, the
same stuff that's on the outside of your fiberglass fishin' boat).  It is a
thermoset.
      I'm digressing.  Backing up.
      The trick with stripping polyester is not to try to strip the topcoat,
but to get at the SEALER coat which is eminanntly strippable.  One method is to
score or sand the finish (if it hasn't already cracked (<G>)) carefully in
several places down to the sealer coat.  Apply Methylene Chloride (paint
remover) and watch the show (might take several applications!).  The other
method is to use a heat gun to force the polyester into frisability, the
drawback being that the temperature needed to do a number on the polyester
usually greatly exceeds the breakdown temperature of the veneer adhesives
usually resulting in severe veneer loss.
      The only other alternative (if it doesn't fall under warranty) that I see
is to scuff it down with 100 grit, spray a couple of coats of black polyester,
and rub it out.  This sort of cancels out the reason for a clear finish,
however.
      Any questions, squirt me a message
      Gabriel Zwierski
      75120.1363@Compuserve.com