Chickering damper reg.

[Les Smith]

>
> >> On Sun, 14 Jan 1996, Les Smith (lessmith@buffnet7.buffnet.net) wrote:
>
> >The beauty of the Chickering damper system is that the lift of all the
> >dampers from the keys can be regulated without ever having to remove the
> >action from the piano. Just remember to put the stop rail back in position
> >after doing the regulation! This damper system is different, but it is well
> >thought out and works beautifully once you understand it's operation. I've
> >been rebuilding 1875-1930 vintage pianos for 30 years and can assure you that
> >there in absolutely NO REASON to "mickey-mouse" this Chickering damper system
> >by trying to modify it or replace it with another. Tp do so is to destroy the
> >integrity of the instrument and that's what we're supposed to be preserving.
> >A vintage Chickering with it's damper system replaced is no longer a Chicker-
> >ing, but some sort of hybrid. Those old, turn-of-the-century Chickerings were
> >were high-quality instruments, much different from Chickerings seen during
> >the last 75 years or so. As such they deserve better treatment than that.
> >Once again, the damper system, as designed, works beautifully and it a piece
> >of cake to regulate once you take the time to learn how it works.
> >
> >Les Smith
> >lessmith@buffnet.net
>
> Doesn't the fact that the damper wire is not free in the top flange limit
> somewhat the amount of fine adjustment you can do with key lift? What do
> you do, for example,  if the ideal spot for optimum damper lift with the
> key is other than the spot allowed by turning the damper 360 degrees (for
> example, 180 degrees)?
>
> BTW, I agree that you can and should preserve the older systems found in
> these pianos but by their very nature, they don't seem to be capable of as
> fine a regulation as the more modern systems (or am I being way too
> picky?).
>
> Regards,
>
> Tom Seay
> t.seay@mail.utexas.edu
> The University of Texas at Austin

Hi, again, Tom. Actually, the VERY fine thread on the damper wire per-
mits extremely close regulation of the damper lift, although you are
you're correct about only geing able to regulate it by full, 360 degree
turns. Additionally, the system provides for adjusting the damper SIDE-
WAYS. The damper head is screwed on to the horizontal portion of the
damper wire. If you find that the left-most string is leaking, for ex-
ample, you simply turn the damper head in a turn or two, If the right-most
string is leaking, you turn it out a turn or two. Thus without ever having
to remove the action from the piano can regulate damper lift from the key
and adjust the damper from side to side with relation to the strings. Neat,
huh? Further the damper "floats" on the horizontal portion of the damper
wire, which allows it to rock slightly foward and backward to achieve per-
fect seating. BTW, it is common practice to completely clean all the cor-
rosion off damper wires when rebuilding a piano. You might, however, want
to leave a small amount of corrosion on the horizontal section of the dam-
per wire in an effort to restrict the rocking motion. When cleaning the
wires, check the rock by screwing on a damper head. A little back and forth
movement is desired, too much can be a pain and require a dab of burnt shel-
lac or PVC-E where the wire enters the damper head in order to limit it.

Les Smith
lessmith@buffnet.net