Don; "Did you mean parallel? The plugs must be cut from similar wood, with the grain aligned with the grain of the wood in the key. If it is perpendicular, the plug may come loose or crack the key." Don Mannino RPT 74473.624@compuserve.com Don, the following discussion assumes the same or similar woods in 'plug' and keystick. I think we are talking about the same principles and looking at them in different ways. i.e. if the 'plug is installed with the grain parallel, and in the same plane, as in the keystick, then expansion of the wood fibres will occur in the same direction as in the keystick but at different rates due to varying numbers of"hard and soft" rings between the keystick and the 'plug'; given enough difference between the two, the plug will get loose in one extreme and be extremely tight in the other extreme. We all have seen what just a slight amount of swelling, in some cases, it takes for leads corroding to split the keystick. Of course many variables come into play with each keyset being different. If the 'plug' is installed with the grain perpendicular (90 deg.) to the grain in the keystick but in the same plane as the grain in the keystick any swelling or shrinking of plug and keystick are counteracting each other and many years later the plug will still be tight in the keystick. Also even if the grain is a complete mismatch between 'plug' and keystick there is less likelihood of the keystick being split by uneven swelling or even extreme wet conditions. This due to the greatest movement of the plug being from front of keystick to back of keystick, with the grain, and not from bottom to top of keystick ,against the grain. I have used the perpendicular method for many years and other than a small drop of glue rubbed on by finger at the bottom of one side of the plug/keystick, after the plug is fit and installed and just for insurance, I do not glue my plugs. I have never ran across a loose plug on any of the sets that I have treated in this manner. I agree with Tom and Charles that little details count and each situation is different and if there is going to be a great deal of weighing and reweighing going on I would have to change my outlook. For simple weight reduction on one set of keys I prefer my method to any other I have tried In any event Don if the same type of wood with a decent grain match is used we should be able to use either method or perhaps even others that have not been talked about and acheive satifactory results. Just my opinion. Jim Bryant (FL) ps- I have some sugar pine and some spruce and intend to do some experimenting on this subject because this thread has peaked my interest. The wood has been in my shop for the same amount of time so there should not be any significant differences in moisture content at the start. I'll post results to the tech list when I finish.
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