Allan/list, I built such a box, much as Susan Graham described in her article. When I need it, the box is indispensable. But I've stopped carrying it unless I know I'll have a situation requiring it. The box simply wasn't paying for its use to weight ratio. I've found it best to reschedule for such work. Remember, with the exception of spyder dollies, the box itself, for the original purpose, is the tip of the iceburg. there are still (presumably) leg plates, casters and whatever other parts involved that caused you to need the box in the first place. I was primed to challange your 'day in the shop' statement, realizing that you meant that in general terms. However, while I don't recall how much time was required, it was not a casual undertaking -- especially for a simple box. In order to keep dimensions reasonable and still custom fit the list of 'goodies' that Susan described, it was almost on a par with building a ship in a bottle. A few more thoughts or modifications for consideration: 1. Susan never did arrive at a satisfactory method of locking the box for transport, so resorted to a hasp arrangement. On the non-hinged side, I used two cut-off machine screws epoxied into one vertical side of the box. These fit through corresponding holes on the door (the holes being lined with pieces of brass hammershank repair sleeves), and are secured with wing nuts. 2, Use piano mover's webbing for the carrying strap. Mount the strap *inside* the top of the box, folded over and screwed down, and make relief cuts (slits) for the straps through the side pieces. 3. Remember to add hydraulic jacks to your list of items that lose their efficiency in cold weather. I almost discovered this the hard way! 4, Paint the box, and affix an embossed version of your business card to the door. The first makes you look more professional; the second is because I've noticed "others" admiring the utility of the device. 5. Glue rubber stair tread on the top and bottom surfaces; looks sharp, prevents scratches, keeps things from wandering around. 6. Add a small square of plywood with a 'dimple' drilled in the center that corresponds to the tip of the jack; this spreads out the surface area of the jack without impeding any swiveling/leveling actions. This extra piece normally stores inside the box. 7. For structural reasons, the box should be made with the top and bottom covering the side, front and back pieces. For load *carrying*, it would be the other way, but for *supporting* weight, this is the correct method. (I hope this wasn't too confusing). 8. Glue and screws are the order of the day. Now go to it! Jim Harvey, RPT _____________________ Reply Separator ________________________ Ed, You are absolutely right about the rear leg not needing a block under the dolly. In my exuberance to pass on something I completely overlooked that. Plus, I'm glad to have such string concurrence on the method. BTW, I think your presentation is a little cleaner. Have you built a leg and lyre box like I mentioned in my first post? I know a few folks who have and seem to love it. If I can get a day in the shop... Allan ------------------------------ End of PIANOTECH Digest 250 *************************** .
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