Rolland, The dry transfer decals are a breeze, if you prepare and take your time. I use the plastic tool from Decals Unlimited (recommended), but I suppose any smooth, rounded-edged plastic would work (similar in shape to a tongue depressor). Mark the decal first for centering. Find the center of the decal, and mark the outer edges to aid you in lining it up when you place it on the soundboard. Tack down the edges of the decal with masking tape to hold it in place and to avoid slipping while you're rubbing it on. Be sure the surface is clean and dry! When you rub it on, start at one edge and work slowly towards the other end, peeling back the carrier paper slowly, and checking to be sure that all the decal is transferring. Watch out for those little pieces of the decal that are easy to miss. Once all the decal is transferred, I shoot the decal and edges of the decal with a very light coat of spray lacquer. Be sure this first coating is done lightly, just enough to hold the decal down. Let it dry. Then finish with your subsequent coats of lacquer, or whatever. Follow the directions, and proceed slowly. It will work beautifully! Don't worry about the cost of the decal - compared to the varnish transfer decals, it's worth every penny! Good luck, John Piesik Piesik's Piano Service Carlsbad, CA JPIESIK@ARINC.COM Hello list, I will soon be attempting my first try at putting on a dry soundboard decal. I have been told that they are easy to put on but at $46.00 a decal I don't want to mess up. o Can they be placed over a water based finish? o Any tips for doing the rub/transfer part? o Should they be given a covering coat of clear finish or left "bare". o If they should have a cover coat, will water based be OK? Thanks for any advice, Rolland Miller, 706423604@compuserve.com Miller Piano Service Berea, Ohio
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