Key Bushing Leather

[Les Smith]

On Mon, 2 Sep 1996 DBHersh@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 96-09-01 20:57:49 EDT, you write:
>
> << After using leather from Pianotech, I began to have some concerns.  First
>  the leather is so soft that it separates internally as it tries to unfold
>  from the bend in the front rail bushings.  I was a little more concerned
>  when I talked to someone in the shop at Pianotech and was told that they
>  had never used it in their shop.
>
>  I am now buying key bushing leather from Richard Meyer in New York.
>  (Check the PTJ classifieds for address and phone.)  I told him what
>  thickness I needed, and he sent me an excellent fine-grained material
>  that really works very well.  I believe it will wear much longer than the
>  material I got from Pianotech.
>   >>
> Paul and list,
>    Thank you for sharing another source for key bushing leather. I believe I
> am going to try Renner's product. I think the problem you had with Pianotek's
> leather is that is not leather, I think it is buckskin. At least that is what
> someone there told me over the phone. I have talked to several people in the
> know about leather key bushings and leather is what you need. In fact it is
> almost like shoe leather where one side is shiney. I guess there is some
> debate about if you should put the shiney side against the pin or vice-versa.
<snip>
> Doug Hershberger, RPT

Traditionally the glue should be applied to the rough side of the leather.
If you try applying the glue to the shiny, or finished side of the leather
it will inevitably come unglued in time, no matter what kind of glue you
use. Therefore, the shiny side should be towards the pin.

Les Smith
lessmith@buffnet.net