Fw: Piano Bench Construction Pt. 1

[pianoman]

James Grebe
R.P.T. from St. Louis
pianoman@inlink.com
"Only my best is good enough"

----------
> From: drgrebe <drgrebe@inlink.com>
> To: pianoman@inlink.com
> Subject: Piano Bench Construction Pt. 1
> Date: Monday, December 01, 1997 6:13 PM
> 
> 	The bench size I normally make is 19" high and 14" X 30" which matches
the
> normal size bench cushion available from GRK which is an added source of
> potential profit.
> 	The top can be made in one of two ways.  The first and easiest is to
build
> the top and rails of the bench out of hardwood furniture grade plywood. 
I
> normally use Birch as it is readily available and works well and takes
> color easy.  Because I buy so little quantity of wood I wind up paying
> retail but thats just the way it is.  From one 4' X 8'  3/4" sheet you
can
> build a number of benches so the cost is not as bad as it seems.
> 	From the 4' X 8' sheet mark out the lid area at 14& 1/2" and 30 & 1/2". 
> Use a hand saw to cut this out of the sheet.  On your table saw you can
cut
> it to the correct size.  I have a Craftsman Contractors 10" saw with a
> Forrest Woodworker II blade.  With this blade very little sanding is
needed
> afterwards.  I normally put strips of masking tape over where the saw
blade
> is going to saw through the wood which keeps tearout to a minimum.
> 	  To cover the edges of the plywood I use edge banding.  You can buy the
> edge banding in White Birch at most hardware superstores like HQ,
Builders
> Square, or Home Depot.  I try to get mine from a mail-order company
called
> Woodworkers Supply where I also get other hardware for the bench.  I get
> the 7/8' edge banding .  With a iron set to cotton temperature you can
glue
> the banding on the edge of the top.  I like to do both long edges first. 
> After gluing it on I like to take a piece of hardwood and rub over the
> entire glued surface several times to secure the band in place.  I then
> wait about 5 minutes and trim of the ends and edges.  Next glue on the 2
> end pieces of edge banding.  I usually cut the edge banding about a 1/2"
to
> long section to glue on.  After pressing on with the hardwood rub I wait
> about another 5 minutes.  The entire lid, edges too,  (both sides can be
> sanded with 150 sandpaper on a random orbit electric finishing sander
> followed by 220 grade sandpaper.  Set this piece aside.
> 	If you wish to use solid hardwood select the several pieces you are
going
> to use to try to match the grain as pleasing as possible.   I haven't
come
> to a firm decision about making sure the grain is running opposite from
the
> other to prevent warping.  I try to have pieces that will be about 2" too
> wide and the same too long.  Try to select the straightest boards you can
> because warpage will really mess you up.  I then use my jointer to make
> sure I have true 90 degree edges to work with.  You have the choice of
> using biscuits, dowels, or I have been using my router mounted
horizontally
> on a table cutting out a 1/4" groove to within 1 & 1/2 " from each end. 
I
> make the groove about 1/2" deep in both boards.  It takes several passes
to
> do this.  You can then get a 1/4" thick piece of Masonite and cut a strip
> just under 1" thick by the length you have just slotted out.  	For one
> bench I tried just edge gluing a very carefully jointed edge and used
> titebond.  I did not detect any problems just edge gluing this lid, and
> since I guaranty my benches for the rest of my lifetime I hope it stay
> glued.
> 	For the next step you need several clamps that you can not only pull you
r
> boards together but also keep them level under pressure.  There are a
> number of clamping systems available to do this.  Where ever I have a
glue
> line I will stick a piece of 1/2" masking tape along both sides of the
glue
> line.  When the clamps are applied I have wax paper underneath to keep
the
> clamps and hold downs from sticking to my work.  You can never have too
> many clamps.  Do a dry fit of everything to make sure it will pull
together
> level and all the way.  Then proceed with your glue.  I use regular white
> glue most of the time because of the long period of time that it takes to
> set up gives me ample opportunity to shift things around to where I want
> them to be.  Make sure you coat both sides of the Masonite as well as
both
> slots to make sure your pieces are not glue starved.  	
> 	After clamping I rest the glued up piece with all clamps vertically so
the
> glue runout  will run longways with the joint rather than across the
board
> making a mess to clean up and get rid of.  I will normally let this dry
in
> clamps 48 hours before removing the clamps.  When the clamps are removed,
> peel off the masking tape and use a wide sharp chisel to remove glue
> residue along your joint.  If things come out right you can use a belt
> sander very lightly and carefully to even out any level irregularities.  
> 	This is usually the most difficult for me as it seems as careful as I
can
> be the two boards don't quite come out level with each other.  I have to
> really exercise my patience at this junction.  This is a very important
> place to have the bench lid level and sanded uniformly smooth so your
stain
> will not mess you up when it comes time to finish.  When your worked up
lid
> is smooth you can decide whether you want to use your router to rout and
> edge pattern for a bevel.  If you do, always cut the bevel on the cross
> grain directions before the long grain.  That way any tear out will be
> absorbed by the long grain routing.  This is the part you can't do when
you
> use plywood.  A nice bevel really sets off your lid to looking much more
> expensive. 
> 	Next step is part II making the rails out of solid or plyed wood and
> choosing what method to hold all together, whether metal corner brackets
or
> some kind of wood locking joint.
> 	Part III is creation of the bench legs, tapered square or rounded.  	
> 	Part IV is making the bottom and deciding where it will go and how to
> attach it. 
> 	 Part V is putting it all together so all legs reach the floor with
> hinges, lid travel stops, rubber buttons.  
> 	Part VI will be on how I finish my benches