Fw: Bench Construction Pt. II

[pianoman]

James Grebe
R.P.T. from St. Louis
pianoman@inlink.com
"Only my best is good enough"

----------
> From: drgrebe <drgrebe@inlink.com>
> To: pianoman@inlink.com
> Subject: Bench Construction Pt. II
> Date: Tuesday, December 02, 1997 5:16 PM
> 
> 	The next step involves making the rails to the bench.  I build benches
> with the bottom board fitting in a rabbit inset in the bottom of the
rails
> and also the bottom floating in a dado cut into the inward sides of the
> rails.  The best way to size the rails, whether hardwood plywood or solid
> wood, is to cut the widths, ripping them all at the same time with the
same
> rip setting.  My rails are all 2 & 3/4".  The lengths are 25 & 3/8" and 9
&
> 7/8".  Likewise cut each dimension to length at the same time.  Of course
> the thickness remains  3/4"
> 	If you are going to use metal corner brackets proceed as follows.  Cut a
> kerf into each inside rail 1/16" wide and as deep as the flange of the
> corner bracket you are using.  The kind I use gets the cut 1 & 1/4" from
> each end and about 3/8" deep.  I use a fine tooth circular saw blade that
I
> keep just for this purpose.  If the bottom is going to be in a rabbit in
> the rail cut a rabbit in the bottom of the rail 3/16" high and about 3/8"
> into the thickness of the rail.  The idea is to have the  bottom level
with
> the bottom surface of the plywood bottom.  I normally use 3/16" Luan
> plywood for the bottom but occasionally use 3/8" birch plywood if I want
a
> particularly strong bench.  The rabbit must be cut up accordingly.  If
you
> use plywood for the rail, now is the time to glue on your edge banding on
> the top surface of the rails and trim to fit.  
> 	If you choose not to use metal corner brackets the way I attach
everything
> is like this.  I have my router mounted horizontally in a fixture.  I use
> the same 1/4" router bit as working with the top.  I mark in my fixture
> where I want the mortise to start and stop and with several passes get
the
> mortise 1/2" deep by about 1 & 1/2" long.  This is done in the center of
> the thickness and in the middle of the width.  Again 1/4" Masonite will
be
> used as a floating blind tenon.  Do this on all the 8 ends of the rails.
> 	Using metal corner brackets has the advantage of being able to take the
> bench apart for finishing as compared to finishing the main carcass as a
> whole.  Using brackets takes longer but saves time in finishing where
> mortising saves time in construction but takes more time and trouble in
> finishing.  As you construct each piece take notes on your own
measurements
> and settings. I have a chalkboard I write these dimension I am shooting
for
> and what I wind up with.  I lose paper notes. Also it is a good idea to
> write down what tools you used to do each operation. I find that I shoot
> for a standard size but hardly ever come out exactly to my own
> measurements.  It does give you some variety.  If you know you are going
to
> build a number of benches do all your ripping to size all at one time. 
> Likewise the other operations also.  That is the easiest way to get
> uniformity in sizes.
> 	The metal corner brackets I use come from Woodworkers Supply.  I attach
> them with Square drive #8 X 3/4" pan head screws I get from Mc Feeleys,
> another mail order house specializing in Robertson head type screws. 
With
> the square drive you can really drive them tight.  I place the brackets
> along the slot I cut from the end and use an 1/8" bit at a slight angle
> towards the end of the rail.  The bracket should be in a place where the
> bench leg bolt will be 3/4" from the top surface of the rails.  I use a
> marking square locating one first and then using the square to place the
> other brackets in the same position from the top of the rail.  Be careful
> not to drill all the way through.
> 	If you want to have the bottom float, cut a dado up about 3'8' inch from
> the bottom of the rail 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep for the 3/16" stock and
> 7/16" and 3/8" deep if you intend to use the 3/8" stock.  It should have
a
> sloppy fit for when you get finish on the pieces it will be a snug fit.  
> 	Having this floating bottom board adds a certain amount of class to the
> bench and helps in demonstrating your quality of construction to your
> client.  If you build this type of bottom there is no fear of it ever
being
> pushed out by too much junk inside the bench.  Well, almost.
> 	
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dr. Dolores P. Grebe
> Chiropractic Physician & 
> drgrebe@inlink.com
> " /