If you check the archives, there was an extensive thread on this subject about a year ago. It's worth reading. I think most technicians regard doping a pinblock only as a measure-of-last-resort. In other words, if you find yourself either buying, or mixing your own pin dope in quanti- ties of a gallon or more, you probably should consider up-grading the quality of the instruments on which you're working! :) Seriously, for that hopefully rare situation where you have no option but to try dop- ing the block, you might want to consider using a pin-tightener that has withstood the test of time. Although there are a number of tradi- tional-type solutions available, both slow and fast acting, the one that appeared to be a almost universally endorsed was Garfield's Pin- Block Restorer. You have to thin it 50/50 with alcohol and wait a week or so before you can either tune the piano, or apply a second treatment, so it's not as fast-acting as some of the others, but many techs swear by it, instead of at it! Read the archives and decide for yourself. After you've applied the pin-tightener, and AFTER you've let the piano set for a week or so, you might want to also consider setting the pins a little deeper into the pinblock, assuming you have enough room between the string-coil and the plate. Whatever you decide to do, Good Luck! You may need it! Les Smith lessmith@buffnet.net On Tue, 25 Feb 1997 KTorres280@aol.com wrote: > Just use Denatured alchohol-you can get it at any Home Depot or Scotties or > even Wal Mart-any place that carries painting stuff-and the pine resin you > can get at most larger sporting goods outlets in a solid form to be smashed > down into powder form. > I got the recipe from a John Travis book on rebuilding and re-stringing. I > have found it to be a lot better than supply house brands except for the > convenience-good luck. Feel free to E-mail me if you'd like more details . . >
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