Repinning advice

Les Smith lessmith@buffnet.net
Wed, 22 Oct 1997 00:21:00 -0400 (EDT)


Boy, how times change! A couple of years ago when I inquired about the
idea of repinning an "M" with 00000's after it had been previously re-
pinned with 000's, the idea was soundly rejected and I was adivsed to
"do the job right and replace the pinblock", or pass it along to someone
else who has the time to do it. (I was buried in work at the time and
was hoping for an easy out. I wound up replacing the block). Now we're
talking about using 0000's PLUS GARFIELD'S in a STEINWAY DUO-ART "L"
that has already been repinned once with 000's. Where are all those
nay-sayers from two years ago?!

My opinion is that Garfield's might be appropriate in a Winter spinet
or a Premier grand as a measure of last resort, but that it doesn't have
any place at all in in a fine quality instrument, least of all a vin-
tage Steinway reproducing grand which "plays very well". Duo-Arts have
the hell beat out them compared to a regular piano. First because most
owners boost the volume selector to its loudest position, "DANCE" and
secondly because most Duo-Art rolls are either advanced Classical se-
lection with notes all over the place, or popular pieces (of the day)
usually arranged for four hands. Marginally tight pins which might be
torerable in a hand-played instrument definitely won't cut it in a
Duo-Art reproducer.

Since you already have the bass strings in hand, I would suggest either
going with the 5's, or perhaps 4's with CA glue instead of Garfield's.
5's would probably be my choice with the idea that eventually the block
WILL have to be replaced. I would not use varnish with either the CA or
Garfield's, but I would use it with the 5's.

Since this is a "late" model Duo-Art, you have to do more that just
lower the controls in the keyslip in order to remove the action. You
are going to have to pull the junction blocks under the keybed, the
pedal lyre, the air-motor and various other connections under the
large top folding panel, too. If you haven't done this before you might
want to either make a sketch of everything beforehand so that you
know how to reassemble it, or take a couple of Polaroid pictures. Take
a hint from someone who's "been there, done that" many times and still
managed to forget most of it (!) to make sure that the action--espec-
ially the dampers, let-off and drop--are properly regulated BEFORE re-
installing the action. If you get the action and player re-installed
and THEN find out that you have a blocking note or two, or perhaps a
couple of damper which aren't lifting properly you're definitely NOT
going to be happy if you have to pull the action and player AGAIN!

Anyway, whatever approach you choose, good luck. You're most definitely
going to need it!

Les Smith
lessmith@buffnet.net


On Tue, 21 Oct 1997, Travis L Gordy wrote:

> Dear list:  Next week I will put a new set of Mapes bass strings in a
> 1924 S&S L. Actually it is a reproducing piano (plays very well) with an
> "L" plate but refinishing has covered the model info.  (Am not looking
> forward to removing  the Duo-Art controls in order to get the action
> out.) The piano was restrung about 15 years ago using 000 pins. (I would
> have used 0000 pins.) Bass restringing is needed because some of the
> pins are not tight enough to stay where they should between tunings, and
> some string pairs have mismatched partials that makes tuning impossible
> so have wedged off some strings.
> 
> I have had much greater success using double oversize pins for
> restringing, but I hate to go 00000. I have been impressed with the
> thread on using varnish but have the impression that its primary
> function is to prevent stick-slip pins and give good tuning control.
> Does it also provide any increased torque? If so, I would feel better
> about using 0000 pins.  Before the varnish thread, I had decided I
> would swab the holes with Garfields to get some swelling overnight then
> repin the next day. Does anyone know if the Garfield treatment and
> varnished pins is a compatible ooperation? Or should I just go with
> Garfields as a pin driving fluid for 0000 pins and forget the varnish?
> I have an idea I will get a variety of opinions which will be very
> interesting. Frankly, I would prefer replacing string pairs as I remove
> them, and pull them up to pitch before going to the next pair. I guess I
> could do it that way  with Garfields as well as the varnish.
> 
> Look forward to your replys,
> 
> Travis Gordy
> 
> 
> 
> 



This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC