Since no one has mentioned it, I have heard that another consideration for using hide glue for hammers is that not as much moisture is absorbed into the hammer shank upon drying. That the water soluble liquid "white" glues including tight bond dry by evaporation and absorbtion of water from the glue to the wood. This could cause warping or twisting of the hammer shank. But fortunately we have shank burners and heated benders. Perhaps a myth, and I have not noticed a difference, but not had the near the experience of those I heard expounding on this. Also can any one comment on why most types of glue need to dry under pressure? This might explain the "brittleness" of some glue joints on some hammers that got reamed a hair more to get that perfect hammer line. Or the tapered shanks are not gonna match up exactly with bored holes that have to be hand reamed to get a desired position first and fit second. Here's one for controversy. What to do about clicking hammer heads? CA of course. Easy as pie in grand actions, uprights though it does help (really necessary) to turn upside down. (the action not the piano) No wonder I havn't seen my hammer extractor for a while. Richard Moody. ---------- > From: Bob Anderson <fndango@azstarnet.com> > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: Re: glueing controversy > Date: Sunday, September 14, 1997 6:00 PM > I > usually use Titebond(aliphatic resin) for hammer hanging, because my > shop stints are often short and interrupted by field work. I don't have > any objection to hide glue, but I don't want to have to be continuously > keeping track of it when I'm out of the shop most of the time. > > I've heard arguments both pro and contra vis-a-vis the "brittleness" of > hide glue for hammer hanging (by experienced piano technicians). I > haven't discovered an overwhelming advantage for either point of view, > in my personal experience. I admit that my experience is not profound. > > Bob Anderson > Tucson, AZ
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