> Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 22:28:34 -0800 > From: Delwin D Fandrich <pianobuilders@olynet.com> > Organization: PianoBuilders/NW > To: pianotech@ptg.org > Subject: Re: aftertouch/front rail punchings > Reply-to: pianotech@ptg.org Hi Del, When I say a "nickel's thickness" I mean that is where I want the key to stop with the correct aftertouch. I will raise the level of the sharp to get "correct" aftertouch with the key bottoming out at about a nickel's thickness above the naturals. Correct aftertouch will allow the jack to clear the knuckle and still have a bit of clearance before it buries into the jack stop felt. David ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA > > David ilvedson wrote: > > > Hi Roger, > > > > I like a nickel thickness and would find a dime's thickness too > > close to level for my taste. Each to his own. > > > > David ilvedson, RPT > > Pacifica, CA > > --------------------------------- > > All of this begs the question, "how much aftertouch should there be?" A good case can be > made that neither a dime nor a nickel is correct. Then again either one might be. > > When discussing aftertouch most people do tend to think of what is happening with the > front of the key. What we should be concerned with, of course, is what is happening with > the jack. Specifically, with the tip of the jack and its relationship to the hammershank > knuckle. This relationship depends on a variety of factors including the hammer blow > distance, the overall key-to-hammer lever ratio, the jack letoff distance and, most > specifically, the length of the jack lever. > > Aftertouch -- whether it be a natural key or a sharp -- should be set so that the jack > clears the knuckle when the key is fully depressed. That may be 1.6 mm (a penny's worth), > it might be 1.8 mm (a nickel's worth), it could be 1.4 mm (a dime's worth) or even 1.7 mm > (a quarters worth). Usually it will come out to be somewhere between 1.0 and 2.0 mm. > > -- ddf > > >
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