Ivory replacement (Long)

[Richard Wagner]

David, you wrote:
>Dear Friends,

>
>I am replacing some ivory head and tail pieces, using ivory wafers (glue
>impregnated cloth pieces) and the brass pieces with clamps....
>
>Three Questions:
>1.  How long do you need to dip the ivory wafer in water?  Just dip it in
>and out of the water?  Or leave it in the water for 10 seconds?  30 >seconds?

I like to dip them in fairly warm water for about 15 - 30 seconds.  If the
wafers are decent, you should begin to see tendrils of whitish "glue-stuff"
begin to leech into the water quite quickly. [Warning, see Addendum below
for my pet peeve.] 

>
>2.  How long do you need to leave the brass plates and clamps on the
>ivory before removing them? 

I feel safest at 24 hours because often I've tried to rush a job which I'd
only clamped an hour or two.  Although everything appeared dry and solid,
there was still moisture trapped in the wafer and the frictional heat
caused by buffing the key, caused the wafer to let go... a similar effect
to steaming out an old key bushing.  

>3.  Someone mentioned the possibility of reactivating the glue on the old
>ivory wafers. 

I personally haven't had much success with it but then I probably didn't do
it correctly either.


-->ADDENDUM<--

Ok, here's my pet peeve... well one of them at least.

I haven't been able to get reliable wafers from any of our major suppliers
in probably 10 years!  I've ordered from many and they all come in the same
manila package with the same printed instructions etc., leading me to
believe that everyone buys them from APSCO maybe?  Doesn't matter.

At any rate, I found that when you dip these things into water as per
instructions, they get soggy and kind of rubbery feeling, and no glue
leeches out.  Then, when you go to clamp them in place, they produce a very
slick surface which causes the ivory to squirm around, making it extremely
difficult to get it well positioned.  To top that all off, I've often found
that after coming back even 24 hours later, the bond that has been made is
not a good one.

In short, They don't work and I don't trust them.

They are not the same as was available when I first started my piano
apprenticeship in the early '80s, and I think that they've given ivory
wafers a bad reputation.
Good ivory wafers are a joy to work with and produce a bond that's solid as
a rock.

Am I totally off base?  Has anyone else had reliable success after having
purchased these things from American suppliers in the last few years?

OK, I finished ranting now, and I apologize to all who've seen similar
posts from me in the past.


To David once again:
If you find similar problems with the wafers you have, check out a copy of
the July 1995 PTJ.  It contains an article by William Smith of Washington
State about making your own wafers.  Although I've never tried it, Mr.
Smith's reputation in ivory work is extremely good and I'll bet they work
great.

IF you don't have problems with your wafers, pleeeeze let me know where you
got them.

Sincerely,

		Richard Wagner RPT