Ivory replacement

[Richard Moody]

You really don't need ivory wafers unless you pull the  old ones off. If
used with tail intact, there will  be a ridge at the joint that will
require many happy minutes of sanding per.  Hold the wafer with tweezers
dip it in HOT but not boiling water for the count of three.  When lifted
out it should be like a rubbery limp noodle. If water is dripping off
shake it so excess water is gone.  If water and white is dripping off you
left it in the water too long but you can probably use it if all the glue
didn't wash off.(which would take something like the count of thirty)  The
clamps heated by boiling water should be dried off,
(which cools them some what so use a hot towel, then) if not, this
moisture
between clamp and ivory is probably causing the ivory to warp or cup. 
Some one mentioned a long time ago putting them into an oven at 300.  They
should be too hot to handle but not burn you if that makes sense.  This is
something you have to try and try again until you get the feel for it. 
Yes the ivories will "walk" after they stop "squirming". You have to check
the clamp and piece for movement many times the first ten minutes. You get
a feel for when it tacs, how the clamp will move for how tight it is, As
with hot glue a temp of over 70 in the work space is a must, 80 is better
, so work near an open oven.
  
If some one finds decent wafers, please order an additional 100, and I
will pay you retail with sase. Somehow writing to Germany for 100 wafers
seems daunting.   
	
If you have not tried the plastic ivory heads from the Schaff or APSCO
you will be surprised at the match, and how quickly 10-15 or 20 even,  go
on instead of replacing the whole lot with molded plastic. This is good
for customers who can't afford ivory, and saves ivory for the better
pianos.  Glue is PVC (white) or CA gel.  I wish they would come with
better "business end" edges. Another glue to try is that stuff called
GOOP.  I think it is all the same, but there is Carpenter's GOOP for about
a dollar more. I have used this on molded plastic, and will again. It
stinks though, but only for a while..

Richard Moody
ps the hot water on old wafer works so good, (which I learned on this
list, thank you) I have used it on grimmey old
wafers where I have washed off the gradu, Yes some glue does come off, but
enough is left,(in many cases) (and you can always put a drop of white
carpenters glue) put a couple of drops of hot water and clamped.  Oh yes,
you will soon develop a good pull test.  The way to do this is to do it to
the keyboard with the ivories comming off.  Now do it to the ivories you 
glued back, (the next day of course).  The learning process is like a
broken drum, you can't beat it.  

pps.  The moto tools with all of the kits for polishing show great promise
for small stuff.  Has anyone used such for ivory?  It works great for spot
buffing on plastic. 
	"The closer to perfection the higher the rewards."  

----------
> From: Vanderhoofven <dkvander@clandjop.com>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Ivory replacement
> Date: Saturday, April 04, 1998 1:25 PM
> 
> Dear Friends,
> 
> I am replacing some ivory head and tail pieces, using ivory wafers (glue
> impregnated cloth pieces) and the brass pieces with clamps.
> 
> Art Reblitz' book "Piano Servicing, Tuning and Rebuilding" (Second
Edition)
> gives the procedure.  Prepare the surface of the key, and the underside
of
> the ivory.  Take the brass plates and heat them in boiling water.  Dip
the
> ivory wafer in water, apply it to the surface of the key, position the
> ivory piece on top of the ivory wafer.  Take the brass plate out of the
> boiling water, put it on top of the ivory, and clamp it.  When the glue
has
> dried, take the clamp and brass plate off.  Then finish the edges, sand
the
> ivory pieces so they are level, and then buff and polish the keytops.
> 
> So far, so good.
> 
> Three Questions:
> 1.  How long do you need to dip the ivory wafer in water?  Just dip it
in
> and out of the water?  Or leave it in the water for 10 seconds?  30
seconds?
> 
> 2.  How long do you need to leave the brass plates and clamps on the
ivory
> before removing them?  The brass plates cool down in an hour or so.  But
> the  ivories warped at the edges (evidently some moisture remained in
the
> ivory).  Do I leave the brass clamps on 4 hours?  8 hours?  24 hours?
> 
> 3.  Someone mentioned the possibility of reactivating the glue on the
old
> ivory wafers.  Is this fact or fiction?  I am charging a goodly amount
of
> money to do this job, and I don't want to have to come back in a year
and
> reglue a bunch of loose ivories that popped off, if I opt to reuse the
old
> wafers again.  Please describe the procedure.
> 
> Thanks Muchly!
> 
> David
> 
> David A. Vanderhoofven, RPT
> #pianotech page:  
> http://www.clandjop.com/~dkvander/ircpiano.html
> 
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