Key Bushings

[Ron Nossaman]

Hi Jim,

Very frustrating. I've had sets do this to me when I was using the wet felt
strip and iron torture system. I haven't since I changed methods. It's
either dumb luck (on which I rely heavily) or a better method. I bought a
small pressure cooker at an estate sale, pitched the popoff weight, and
ground the lid nipple to a taper on the tip. When it's wheezing a good head
of steam, I set the key on top (front bushing) and rock it about 45 degrees
first one way, then the other with a 3-5 second pause on each side. For the
center, I set the balance rail hole over the tapered nipple and lay the flat
side of the top of my tweezers over the bushing to contain the steam and
count to 5. That's Midwestern and Northern seconds. You only need about
three Southern ones since they're a mite slower. The concentrated super heat
and humidity seems to blast into the bushing and soften the glue before the
wood behind it turns to mush. Anyway it has for me for the last three years
or so. Since I've said this in public, though, the next one will probably
get me good. Come to think of it, I have had a tough set with this method.
Pre-wetting worked on that one but it sounds like it wouldn't with the set
you have. Anyway, even though sympathy is as useless as a rubber duck full
of rocks, you have mine. I can probably generate a little sympathy too. %-)

Ron



At 04:10 PM 2/6/98 EST, you wrote:
>List;
> I am currently working on a set of keys whose front rail bushings, indeed the
>entire front of the keys, has been soaked in McLube or some similar substance.
> My usual method of soaking the bushing, allowing to stand, and then steaming
>is not working especially well.  The water alcohol mixture is beading up and
>the steam does not seem to be penetrating as well as it normally would.   This
>is causing quite a bit of 'tear out' in the mortises.  The old bushings are
>glued in with the white heat activated wafers.
> Any ideas? Tricks? 
>Jim Bryant (FL)
>

 Ron Nossaman