What is "Flagpoling?"

[Guy, Karen, and Tor Nichols]

Newton is not here.

At 05:56 AM 1/4/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>	Guy,
>
>	I guess I need to ask another question. Is the tuning pin
>sufficiently tight? As long as the pin is tight and is not touching
>anything else, we should be able to set it, though you may need that tip
>with the paper thin sides.

Ken,
	Although it's hard to be absolutely sure that the pin is tight only in the
block, in other words, not influenced by friction with it's neighbors or
wires that are deflected around it, I'd have to say yes, the overall block
condition leads me to believe the pin is tight. (THAT was a weird sentence!)
Of course, your qualifier is "not touching anything else", and THAT's the
rub, isn't it? (excuse the little attempt) The touching problem is why I
tried the light tap on the end of the pin. I didn't feel like I needed to
re-set the pin in the block... I just needed to make sure it wasn't
hanging-up on any thing else.


>	I have been experimenting with a new technique which I call Bump
>And Rebound. To use it, I pull the pin so that the pitch is somewhat above
>the final spot. Then, with stiff fingers and hand, I gently slap the
>hammer handle in a counter-clockwise direction. With each slap, I withdraw
>my hand quickly so that the pin can some to its own resting place. The
>theory is that if the pin and string find their own place of stability,
>the pin torsion and bend and the string equalization will be accurate and
>the string will stay well in tune. It works great for me.

Yup, forget who showed me that one twenty years ago, but it's been working
for me in most cases (uprights) for that long, at least. It's one of the
reasons I prefer a number 3 tip. I also find the #3 better for all the BPO
snuggies I tune. Lets me get all the way down to the coil, and leaves
enough "slack" for a little impromptu "impact" tuning.

>
>	Ken Burton "Doctor Piano" Calgary Alberta 


Guy Nichols