case parts and a pin

[Susan Kline]

What about heating the broken pin by contacting the stub with a very large
soldering iron, and _then_ trying the extractor? Once again, if you overdo, 
you can epoxy in a plug.

At 08:23 AM 1/16/98 EST, Bill Simon wrote:

>In conjunction with any of the proper methods for pin removal, consider
>reducing the pin torque with heat. You have a lot of pin on which to put an
>extractor tip. Put on the extractor tip tightly, then heat it with a torch for
>a few seconds and try backing it out. ( Use a tiny torch or very tiny tip,
>sideways, just hitting the tip of the extractor, protecting everything around
>the pin.  In my shop it would be possible to use an acetylene outfit with a
>jewelry welding torch tip directly on the pin stub.  It puts out a flame only
>1/16" long)   Alternatively, you could heat the tip of a punch to red hot,
>-and I actually do mean red hot,  because transfer of heat will not be that
>good anyway, then press it onto the tip of the pin for a few seconds, then
>extract. With a hot punch you do not need to shield anything around the pin.
>High heat, fast, should heat the one pin sufficiently without affecting its
>neighbors, whereas slow heating with a soldering gun may make a whole area
>hot, and doesn't work very well anyway.
>
>Consider worst case scenario. You fall asleep and inadvertantly heat the pin
>until it chars the few thousandths of an inch of pinblock around itself, then
>it practically falls out.  Simply drill out the wood to the diameter of the
>hole in the plate,  plug the hole with pinblock material, epoxied in,  and
>redrill for a new pin. 
>
>Just a thought, or two.
>
>Bill Simon
>Phoenix
>
>
>

Susan Kline
P.O. Box 1651
Philomath, OR 97370
skline@proaxis.com

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