Knuckles

[Gilreath@aol.com]

John,

As many others have mentioned, micro-fine teflon is about the only lube that
many folks are using now. (It actually seems to work!) I don't know how the
budget is, but if allowable, pop those puppies out and replace them.  You'll
get a much better regulation job with a decent surface.  This can be done very
quickly if you have a shop set up and get used to the procedure.  I've tried
many different ways of removing knuckles (like side cutters, tool from Hale,
end nippers, etc.)  My method of choice is to use Glen Hart's Knuckle-Buster,
a bladed tool that fits into a drill press chuck. However, I've made a little,
adjustable jig that holds the shank in place on the table and keeps the bottom
side from splitting when force is applied.  Then, you can use a shaped
caul/jaw face and press each one in after applying a little glue.  Clear as
mud, right?  You might want to check with Pianotek or Spurlock or someone who
carries Glen's tools (like the Hart spring tool) and see if they stock those.

This method puts new knuckles in the action in about the time that it takes me
to bolster, brush, etc.  I often do this when I hang a new set of hammers and
repin the flanges without replacing the shankfs.  If you want more details on
this, feel free to email me privately.

Allan

Allan L. Gilreath, RPT
Gilreath Piano & Organ Co.
Calhoun, GA USA
Gilreath@aol.com

In a message dated 98-07-21 16:35:16 EDT, you write:

<< List,
 I have a grand action, with knuckles that are all graphited up.
 I seem to recollect that using toluene with a brass wire brush, is the
 way to remove this stuff. Is this correct?
 I then intended to use dry lube powder from APSCO, or soapstone, to
 lubricate the knuckles.
 Is this a correct procedure?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 Thank you.
 John M. Ross
 Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada.
  >>