CA adhesive repairs

[Ron Nossaman]

Either no one else has mentioned this, or I've missed it (it could happen!).
My most effective fix, especially when the corner of the music rack is split
out from impact or overloading, is as follows.  First, glue all the
available pieces back in the appropriate places with CA, PVA, epoxy, or
Titebond. The choice of glue is either personal preference, or cure time
related. Any of them are strong enough. Next, drill 1/4" hole up from the
bottom of the panel, about 1/4" and in from the edge and 1" - 1 1/2" deep,
as room allows, and glue in a dowel. When you re-drill the screw hole in the
end of the panel, try to center it horizontally in the dowel. Repair finish
if necessary and assemble. The dowel, cross grain to the panel, will hold
the screw firmly and absorb a lot more abuse than the panel (with a screw in
end grain) alone. If in doubt, put in two dowels.  With this method, it's
not only repaired, it's stronger than the original design and your dowel
holes are in the bottom edge of the panel where they won't show even if you
are "finish repair" challenged. High performance results from cheap tricks
are among my favorite (non fattening) things.

Ron    




At 12:06 AM 3/1/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Richard Beaton wrote:
>
>> John...
>> The best way to fix that music rack is drill a 1/4 inch hole where the old
>> screw came out, then use a brass sleeve (shank repair type) put a little
>> glue in the hole and slide the sleeve in. Now just put a new hammer shank
>> in the sleeve with a bit of glue on it and cut it off flush.
>
>This is an excellent fix. Another excellent fix is to drill out the stripped
>hole and screw in a brass insert to accept a 6/32 flat head brass machine
>screw. There is probably little difference in the longevity of these 2 methods
>but the brass insert method does not rely on glue and if you have the right
>tools, is a little quicker.
>
>Norm Barrett
>Memphis, TN
>
>
>


 Ron Nossaman