dpitsch wrote: > > Yes, Damper Chasers[sic] affect the RH in the room, and in fact the home. <snip> earlier post: > > > Hogwash. Water in the air is a vaper. All vapers disperse to > > >all parts of the room and home. To think that the bellyrail would keep the extra humidity > > >from affecting the hammers and action is just not consistent with > > >how vapers react in an enviroment. > > >Davd Pitsch To which Greg Newell responded: > > Dave , > > Does this mean that Damp Chasers do not in fact control only > > the piano but in fact the entire room as well????? > > Greg Newell > >True, to a point. However, as Dave points out, a Dampp-Chaser can not come close to a room- or furnace-dehumidifier in adding absolute volume of water to the air. It doesn't try to, nor is that really relevant. RELATIVE humidity (RH)n is what we are talking about. The amount of water which air can hold without condensing is a function of its temperature. RH is an expression of the amount of water in a given volume of air at a given temperature compared to the amount of water that the same volume of air could hold at saturation point at the same temperature. Yes, water diffuses through air quite quickly, but it moves from areas of high concentration to areas of low concentration. That is the definition of diffusion. In a perfect world (or a museum) it is possible to maintain an environment at a relatively constant RH. In most houses, particularly in climates where there is a 50 C (90 F) difference between summer and winter temperatures, this is an impossibility. In houses built in Canada before the last 15 years or so, if you tried to maintain an interior humidity of 45% at 21 C (72 F) when the outside temperature is -25 C (-10 F) there would be water running down all your windows and condensing in your insulation, because in the boundary layer at the walls and windows, the temperature is a lot lower than 21C and the RH is therefore >100%. To lower RH, in summer, you must either raise the temperature of the air, or remove water from it. If the R.H. outside, at say 35 C (90 F) is 85%, when you bring that air inside and cool it to 21 C (72 F), you are at or near the dew point. In a house, where humidity is usually a problem in summer, if at all, you don't want to raise the temperature, so you must remove moisture by using refrigeration to create a "sink" -- a cold zone where local RH is 100% so that water will condense and can be disposed of. Unfortunately, unless you have air locks on all your doors, this is a losing proposition too, and it becomes practically impossible, or at least very expensive, to keep R.H. down to 45% in summer. Wood doesn't care about what the relative humidity is on the other side of the room. Moisture in the wood is in equilibrium with moisture in the boundary layer of air around the wood. If you raise the RH, by adding water to the air in the immediate vicinity of the soundboard, the wood will reach equilibrium with that humidified air. As long as you are adding moisture to the immediate environment as fast as it can diffuse away, you are accomplishing your aim. Picture a cigarette burning in an ashtray. The smoke will diffuse to all areas of the house, and pretty quickly, too--but it will always be orders of magnitude more concentrated at the ashtray than on the other side of the room, as long as the cigarette continues to burn. Another "thought experiment" (as Einstein called them). Imagine having a nice hot shower in winter with the bathroom door open and the exhaust fan off. Put a hygrometer on your vanity top and another on the other side of the house, with all intervening doors open. The R.H. in your bathroom will be 100% within minutes, and will stay there until the hot water runs out. The R.H. on the other side of the house will never approach 100%, no matter how long you run the shower. The wallpaper in your bathroom will peel, that in your bedroom won't. That cellulose is the same as the cellulose your soundboard is made of. Likely even made of spruce. It is possible in some parts of North America to control room humidity within the limits which we are told pianos "like", but in many areas it is quite impractical, if not impossible. I think the Dampp-Chaser system is the next best thing. Tim Keenan Noteworthy Piano Service Terrace, B.C.
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