aftertouch/front rail punchings

[Roger Jolly]

>By the way, am I the only tech who sets the dip in the sharps as equal
aftertouch to the
>naturals?  What about it LIST?
>
Greetings All,
              The after touch of the sharps should always be the same as
the naturals, in fact I think the good performers tend to pick up problems
on the sharps quicker due to the shorter leverage, and or less security due
to surface area of the finger tip on the key, I'm not sure which?
  Back check position is a good clue to tell if the sharp height, and dip
is correct, but if you have .015 on the naturals the the same should be
true the sharps.
  Jim C. Sr. raises a good point on balance rail punchings that I forgot to
mention in the previous post. Besides ironing the front rail punchings, I
have a flat block of steel and a one pound hammer that I smack each B/R
punching before use, this give an extremely stable leveling job, I also use
the minimum amount of card and paper punchings possible. If the leveling is
done in the shop we remove the split punchings and install uncut, to
prevent any from working out.
  In grand piano regulation, key level and correct jack height and position
is the equivelent to building a house on a rock foundation, as opposed to
sand.
any thing that can cause movement to this area should be very carefully
checked and adjusted. Key frame bedding should be maticulous, as this is
the footing for the foundation. Light frame pianos such as Yamahas, besides
inconsistent touch, will also cause a significant drop in power as well as
wood knock, added to the tone quality.
  Regulation at the level that we are discussing, requires patience and
maticulous workmanship, and just as much concentration as setting the
perfect unison. 
Regards to all
Roger
Roger Jolly
Balwin Yamaha Piano Centres.
Saskatoon/Regina.
Canada.