Wim, Greg, et al, A few thoughts. I have found the PVC-E adhesive (which has been discussed on the list before) to work exceptionally well for gluing on both ivory and sets of conventional keytops. It's easy to work with, doesn't "eat into" the plastic tops, has good gap-filling properties and remains slightly flexible so the top doesn't pop off of the key when subjected to climatic changes. As to buffing, a standard buffer or bench grinder fitted with a buffing wheel is way too fast for buffing plastic tops. I haven't worked with the Vagias tops but have had great results buffing other tops with white polishing compound and a slow speed buffing wheel. Let us know how it all looks when you get it going, Jim. Allan Allan L. Gilreath, RPT Gilreath Piano & Organ Co. Calhoun, GA USA Gilreath@aol.com In a message dated 98-05-21 20:45:28 EDT, you write: << Willem, I think the problem is the solvents in the 3M spray adhesive. It is a lot stronger chemically than rubber cement, and it will eat into the plastic although you can still use naphtha to clean it when it is still fresh. I had a similar experience. I don't believe it is the keytops themselves because when I used the latex based adhesives I have never had this problem. And you can buff keytops if they are acrylic plastic. Only the white abs top from Vagias can be buffed. The others (Vagias) are made of a softer plastic. The molded tops from American Supply can also be buffed. It is handy to be able to buff a scratch out especially when you happen to accidentally scratch one when installing. JMHO Regards, Greg Torres >>
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC