Broken Tuning Pins

Ron Nossaman nossaman@SOUTHWIND.NET
Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:45:53 -0600 (CST)


>
>2)  But perhaps a more important cause is a poor tuning tip-to-pin fit. 
>(Maybe breaking a pin is a right of passage, just like snapping off note
>'88' as you pull a grand action.  Maybe we should scrap the exams and
>let you into PTG only if you can document those two events :-).  ) 
>Anyway, the best way to snap off the top of a tuning pin is to contact
>the pin at the top rather than uniformly along the side of the pin down
>to the becket.  Make sure your tuning tip is firmly seated the full
>length of the top of the pin before applying torque.


Forgive me Carl, but I have to ask. If you are talking about a break at the
becket hole, how could the tip fit make any difference? Torque at the hole
should be the same, however the tip fits, and that's the only place I've
ever seen a pin break. Also, I think a prospective RPT should have to
demonstrate his/her/it's ability to tolerate household livestock as another
minimal standard for upgrade.   

Just trying to maintain perspective.


>
>I think it's fair to say that there is one right way to remove a broken
>pin and that any other  removal method should not be considered until
>the 'right way' has been tried.  The extractor tip, with reverse
>threads, used with a T-hammer as Newton suggests, is the correct way. 
>Get out your torches and drill bits only when this method fails.
>
>Carl Root, RPT

Aw man! Any fix that doesn't involve at least a small open flame just isn't
hardly worth the effort...   Just kidding, I quite agree.

 
 Ron 



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