damper tray disaster

Robert Goodale Robert.Goodale@NAU.EDU
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 00:02:13 -0700



CAPSTANDAN@AOL.COM wrote:

> Dear list,
> I've been servicing a 1985 Young Chang concert grand which has a player mech.
> installed (it's inside a hotel's lobby). The dampers - starting at about the
> break between the tenor & the bass sections are gradually lifting very little to
> not
> lifting at all (in the mid to lower bass.  A colleague tech. (who originally
> installed the player), tried to reinforce the tray by attaching an angle iron
> to the bottom of it all the way across, but it didn't make any difference -
> the tray appears to bow each time the sustain pedal is depressed.  I called
> Young Chang- trying to get a new ALUMINUM tray but they informed me -it takes
> 3-4 mos. to
> get it shipped to the U.S & by that time the budget the hotel allotted for the
> job will disappear.  I did check the flanges which allow the tray to "swing "
> up & down, & they seem fine.  Young Chang is sending me another wooden tray at
> my request.  <By the way, the action is a Renner action>
> Got any ideas to "beef" up the new tray?

<snip>

I realize you mention that an attempt was made to reinforce the current tray with
angle-iron, but may I suggest a different approach to the same idea....

To begin with I would NOT use iron since this material is very heavy.  This will
add substantial weight to the damper lift, not only making the pedal heavy during
regular playing but also giving the player pedal solenoid an unneccessary
workout.  I do, however beleive that this reinforcement idea may be the answer.  I
would suggest using *aluminum* angle material.

My thoughts are as follows:

1. Remove the tray completely from the piano.

2. Using a router to create a recessed channel (bottom and lower sides) across
front AND the back of the tray the same depth as the thickness of the aluminum
angle material. (this could also be done using a table saw).

3. Drill countersunk holes across the aluminum at regular intervals, (every 3 or 5
inches for example), along both 9O degree sides. Stagger the holes so that each
set is not in the same location.

4. Insert the aluminum into the channel so that it it is now flush all the way
across, bottom and sides.
With pre-drilled holes in the tray, screw the angled aluminum down tightly.

If you are interpreting my idea correctly, you should now have two pieces of 90
degree angled aluminum flushly mounted to the front and back of the bottom of the
damper tray.  With *two* pieces front and back tightly secured in a cut slot it
would seem to me that this should do a good job at preventing a bow in the
middle.  If it still has a slight bowing effect I might suggest installing a third
angle piece through the middle by cutting a slot with a table saw the depth and
width of one side of the angled material.  Then use the router idea mentioned
above to make the other exposed portion flush.  This technique would not effect
the original  dimensions of the tray since all angled pieces are securly inlayed
flush.

Hope this idea sounds do-able.  Good luck.

Rob Goodale, RPT




This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC