Sharp leveling

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Jerry,
         Most of the points re dip, and after touch have been covered by
other post's. One thing to bear in mind,if the keys have been recovered
at some time, and changed from ivory to plastic, the plastic is about
0.030" thicker.  If the keys have not been milled to compensate for the
difference you will have this problem.
Secondly, some manufacturers spec their sharps to be slightly higher
than the naturals. 
As a rough rule of thumb key height on an old upright will be very
close, if the front of the key that is above the keyslip forms a square.
This was done by most manufacturers for cosmetic reasons.
Hope this helps 
Roger 










Jerry Hunt wrote:
> 
> In leveling the sharps on my old upright/cadaver, most of them when
> leveled at 1/2" above the white keys (which were leveled first), the key
> sits noticably higher than the adjacent white keys at the balance rail.
> Reblitz notes that the top of the wood part of the keys should be about
> the same height for both sharps and whites.
> 
> Obviously, on this piano, I can't do both. Granted, the sharps may be
> worn slightly (I repainted them) but I wouldn't think they would be worn
> that much. Which is preferable, sharps 1/2" above whites, or top of keys
> (excluding keytops/sharp cover) level?
> 
> Thanks, and I hope my scenario is clear.
> --
> Jerry Hunt
> Dallas, TX