Vertical Frame Separation

[Steve Pearson]

Ralph, and list.  There were several brands of piano, including some Baldwins and Everetts with similar problems back inthe 60's and 70's.  The recommended repair is to ascertain the location of the backposts, and drill a 7/16 hole all the way through the plate and backpost.  Before you do this, you will have used a couple of good pipe, "C", or Jorgensen clamps and made your best effort to close the crack.  It can't be done, but try.  Anyway, now drill the hole(s), and insert a 3/8" hex head bolt with a washer between the head and the plate surface, long enough to reach, but not extend beyond, the back of the piano.  I preferred securing with a T-nut, since it pulls down nearly flush, and does not require drilling a recess for a washer and nut.  Other options include inserting a stove bolt (round head with square shank) from the back, with a washer and hex nut inside (tuning pin side) as the bolt protrudes from the plate.  None of the above requires unstringing, or even dropping the pitch.  You do need to make sure the bolt goes through the backpost.  Many of the pianos with this problem not only had screws far too short to be worth much, but they frequently only screwed into the filler block between the posts!  If you have the luxury of having the old bolt hole in the correct location to catch a backpost, so much the better.  Repairing these splits isn't always  real pretty, but it works, and the only other option would be to send the piano to it's final arpeggio in the sky.  I once saw a pinblock separation in an old upright that ran the entire length of the piano, and was as much as 1/2" wide!  The pitch was almost a minor third low.  For the heck of it, I offered to do it for this little church wherein I found it.  Not knowing if it would implode, or what, I did what I described above, using six carriage bolts, and gradually torqued them down.  By the time I stopped cranking, the piano was within a quarter step of 440, except for the bass/tenor break, which was dead on.  It tuned up fine, and as far as I know
for the faint hearted, though., what with all the creaking and groaning and popping sounds it emitted.   
Steve Pearson

>>> <ralphbl@mindspring.com> 03/18 2:24 PM >>>
I have a client who owns a Starck console, circa 1965, that has developed a
separation of the top of the frame (directly behind the pinblock). It's
about 18 inches long and runs from C8 down to about C6. At its widest point,
it's about 1/16th inch (or less) wide. It looks as if there were 2 pieces of
wood glued together to make the top of the frame and they appear to have
separated slightly. I tightened the screws before tuning and discovered that
the RH top corner screw has stripped out. Since I don't do rebuilding, may I
please pick some brains as to whether this is something that needs immediate
attention and/or what would be your ideas for the best procedure?

Thank you,
Ralph Black
Nashville