List, OK, I'm reluctantly considering C-A glue for ONE very loose low bass pin (monochord section) in a small grand of modest value and many years. I'm not fond of shims and I don't like pins above a size 4 or of a different size than the rest in a section, if avoidable. I've been on the list only 6 weeks now, so I'm sure I've not gotten the benefit of many past discussions. Has anything been published in the Journal? Putting the cart before the horse, let me envision what I'm supposed to do, and someone please correct and advise me as necessary. 1. Loosen 1/4 turn or so, slip off the coil and turn the pin up a little higher than it should be when at tension. This is so that a) it will be at the right height when finished, and b) the glue will form evenly at all points on the pin, which it would not if it were under tension. 2. With the action out of the piano and plastic sheeting on the key bed, apply accelerator to the under side of the pin block at the problem area. This is so that any glue that might be tempted to drip will harden before doing so. The plastic is in case that fails. 3. Apply low viscosity (red label) glue to the base of the pin, using a well sealed hypo syringe (which I guess is trash after the procedure). Allow the glue to wick down until the pin won't take any more. Let harden completely. 4. Clean the underside of the pin block; install and tighten jack. Whack pin just enough to break glue contact. Turn pin to point lightly above surrounding pins, replace coil, bring to tension and tune. How's that? Some questions: Q#1: When the pin gets whacked, does it really separate cleanly from the surrounding wood (and the glue itself). Why doesn't some of the glue remain on the pin, possibly along with bits of wood from the block? Q#2: Why doesn't the pin bind and jump during tuning from rubbing against a plastic and possibly uneven surface? Sorry if I'm covering old ground or if my assumptions are completely off base. Paul S. Larudee, RPT Richmond, CA
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