C-A glue for pin blocks

[Paul S. Larudee]

BSimon1234@AOL.COM wrote:
> 
> No. Just hit it with the CA and accellerator  where it is. Don't loosen it,
> don't take off the coil, etc.
> 
> No - for just one pin slip a foot square sheet of alum foil above the action,
> below the area of the pin. You are only going to put on a few drops, less
> than one  cc.
> 
> No. -Get a 1/2 or 1 oz. small bottle of the CA glue, put a capillary tip on
> it and apply with that.  You should see it flow around the bae of the pin.
> Don't apply forever. Give it a good sploosh, let it sit a minute, give it
> another good sploosh, applying only around the pin, not out onto the plate,
> not up onto the coil.  Let that soak in, then put a very tiny drop of
> accellerator at the base of the pin. You might see the residue of the CA glue
> "freeze" solid. I would leave it alone for several hours, a day or two is
> better, but it is possible that 10 minutes might also work.
> 
Bill,

Sounds like the idea is not to address the looseness of the entire hole,
just to create a little more friction, mainly where the pin exits the
block.  Is that right?

If that is the case, I suppose high viscosity (red label) stuff would
not be the glue of choice.  My thought was that I would need the glue to
penetrate as deep and saturate the wood as much as possible.  From what
you're saying it sounds like that might be overkill and would create too
strong a bond.  Or would it be appropriate as long not too much is used?

Thanks.

Paul S. Larudee, RPT
Richmond, CA
> <<4.  Clean the underside of the pin block; install and tighten jack.
> Whack pin just enough to break glue contact.  Turn pin to point lightly
> above surrounding pins, replace coil, bring to tension and tune.>>
> 
> No.  It is unlikely that there will be a residue on the underside, especially
> for just one pin. The  drips come from treating the entire pinblock en masse
> with several ounces of CA glue.
> 
> <<How's that?
> 
> The above advice is just my opinion, it is the way I would do it,  but I bet
> it works better than the elaborate scheme you were intending. If the torque
> is insufficient, support and tap. If the current pin torque is above 15 inch
> pounds, it is unlikely that tapping is manditory. The CA treatment quite
> possibly will be enough.
> 
> Some questions:
> 
> <<Q#1:  When the pin gets whacked, does it really separate cleanly from
> the surrounding wood (and the glue itself).  Why doesn't some of the
> glue remain on the pin, possibly along with bits of wood from the block?>>
> 
> Support the pinblock if you need to whack the pin, but I would just put the
> tuning hammer on the pin, knock it flat a bit, then tune. If things went
> well, you will likely hear the crack of a jumping pin, once, releasing the
> pin to be tuned. I treated quite a few pins in experimentation months ago,
> and just went and got the pieces of pinblock and cut them apart on the band
> saw. I sawed a few pins out from the block. The pins were essentially clean,
> the glue was into the wood, no fibers torn out at all. Perhaps it was because
> the pins I experimented on were new and plated? ( I started with pin torque
> of zero, with the pins able to fall through the holes,  and got up to 80
> in/lbs with two treatments.
> 
> <<Q#2:  Why doesn't the pin bind and jump during tuning from rubbing
> against a plastic and possibly uneven surface?>>
> 
> Don't know, but none of the ones I have treated ever bound up or jumped,
> except for the initial break-a-way.
> 
> Why not experiment on a scrap piece of pinblock in your shop before
> experimenting on the customer's piano?
> 
> My 2 cents.
> 
> Bill Simon
> Phoenix