C-A glue for pin blocks

[Joe & Penny Goss]

Roger,
Thanks that is a good tip. I hate it when the glue squirts out when the
dispensing vial is too full. 
Joe Goss

----------
> From: Roger Jolly <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: C-A glue for pin blocks
> Date: Sunday, May 09, 1999 5:30 AM
> 
> Hi Joe,
>        I use the red Hot stuff for border line pins, a tip to stop the
> stuff from running all over the place. Salvage an empty bottle and use a
> new cap with a pin hole in the nossle,  pour about an 1/8 to 1/4" of glue
> into the empty bottle. You now have to have the bottle near vertical
before
> the glue runs out.
> This gives you time to get the tip right to the bass of the tuning pin
with
> no over spill. Remember wash the bottle in solvent for reuse.
> Regards Roger
> 
> 
> At 07:59 PM 5/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >Paul,
> >Your only concern needs to be neatness and protect the action from drips
> >that may occur.
> >You do not need to use activator if you are able to come back the next
day
> >to tune.
> >When using the activator as a spray, try to protect the bass strings by
> >shielding them with an old newspaper  or anything handy, held in your
hand
> >and moving it along as you spray.
> >Joe Goss
> >
> >----------
> >> From: Paul S. Larudee <larudee@pacbell.net>
> >> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> >> Subject: Re: C-A glue for pin blocks
> >> Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 7:23 PM
> >> 
> >> BSimon1234@AOL.COM wrote:
> >> > 
> >> > No. Just hit it with the CA and accellerator  where it is. Don't
loosen
> >it,
> >> > don't take off the coil, etc.
> >> > 
> >> > No - for just one pin slip a foot square sheet of alum foil above
the
> >action,
> >> > below the area of the pin. You are only going to put on a few drops,
> >less
> >> > than one  cc.
> >> > 
> >> > No. -Get a 1/2 or 1 oz. small bottle of the CA glue, put a capillary
> >tip on
> >> > it and apply with that.  You should see it flow around the bae of
the
> >pin.
> >> > Don't apply forever. Give it a good sploosh, let it sit a minute,
give
> >it
> >> > another good sploosh, applying only around the pin, not out onto the
> >plate,
> >> > not up onto the coil.  Let that soak in, then put a very tiny drop
of
> >> > accellerator at the base of the pin. You might see the residue of
the
> >CA glue
> >> > "freeze" solid. I would leave it alone for several hours, a day or
two
> >is
> >> > better, but it is possible that 10 minutes might also work.
> >> > 
> >> Bill,
> >> 
> >> Sounds like the idea is not to address the looseness of the entire
hole,
> >> just to create a little more friction, mainly where the pin exits the
> >> block.  Is that right?
> >> 
> >> If that is the case, I suppose high viscosity (red label) stuff would
> >> not be the glue of choice.  My thought was that I would need the glue
to
> >> penetrate as deep and saturate the wood as much as possible.  From
what
> >> you're saying it sounds like that might be overkill and would create
too
> >> strong a bond.  Or would it be appropriate as long not too much is
used?
> >> 
> >> Thanks.
> >> 
> >> Paul S. Larudee, RPT
> >> Richmond, CA
> >> > <<4.  Clean the underside of the pin block; install and tighten
jack.
> >> > Whack pin just enough to break glue contact.  Turn pin to point
lightly
> >> > above surrounding pins, replace coil, bring to tension and tune.>>
> >> > 
> >> > No.  It is unlikely that there will be a residue on the underside,
> >especially
> >> > for just one pin. The  drips come from treating the entire pinblock
en
> >masse
> >> > with several ounces of CA glue.
> >> > 
> >> > <<How's that?
> >> > 
> >> > The above advice is just my opinion, it is the way I would do it, 
but
> >I bet
> >> > it works better than the elaborate scheme you were intending. If the
> >torque
> >> > is insufficient, support and tap. If the current pin torque is above
15
> >inch
> >> > pounds, it is unlikely that tapping is manditory. The CA treatment
> >quite
> >> > possibly will be enough.
> >> > 
> >> > Some questions:
> >> > 
> >> > <<Q#1:  When the pin gets whacked, does it really separate cleanly
from
> >> > the surrounding wood (and the glue itself).  Why doesn't some of the
> >> > glue remain on the pin, possibly along with bits of wood from the
> >block?>>
> >> > 
> >> > Support the pinblock if you need to whack the pin, but I would just
put
> >the
> >> > tuning hammer on the pin, knock it flat a bit, then tune. If things
> >went
> >> > well, you will likely hear the crack of a jumping pin, once,
releasing
> >the
> >> > pin to be tuned. I treated quite a few pins in experimentation
months
> >ago,
> >> > and just went and got the pieces of pinblock and cut them apart on
the
> >band
> >> > saw. I sawed a few pins out from the block. The pins were
essentially
> >clean,
> >> > the glue was into the wood, no fibers torn out at all. Perhaps it
was
> >because
> >> > the pins I experimented on were new and plated? ( I started with pin
> >torque
> >> > of zero, with the pins able to fall through the holes,  and got up
to
> >80
> >> > in/lbs with two treatments.
> >> > 
> >> > <<Q#2:  Why doesn't the pin bind and jump during tuning from rubbing
> >> > against a plastic and possibly uneven surface?>>
> >> > 
> >> > Don't know, but none of the ones I have treated ever bound up or
> >jumped,
> >> > except for the initial break-a-way.
> >> > 
> >> > Why not experiment on a scrap piece of pinblock in your shop before
> >> > experimenting on the customer's piano?
> >> > 
> >> > My 2 cents.
> >> > 
> >> > Bill Simon
> >> > Phoenix
> >
> Roger Jolly
> Balwin Yamaha Piano Centres.
> Saskatoon/Regina.
> Canada.