Hi Tom, I prefer to go two sizes over on old pianos, hand reaming with .010" undersize drill in a heavy duty tap wrench. I have found that it produces very even torque, at about 100 to 110lbs. The newer piano I would hand ream the same way to accept 3.0 pins. As a standard practice, I always redamper any piano that I restring, it seems just as fast to do this than paly with old indented felt, trying to get rid of leaky dampers. I have had no problems just installing the pins with out fluids. Mic all TP's before starting, it's amazing how often one finds a 2.0 pin in a 3.0 box. Some boxes I have rejected as many as 20 pins. Regards Roger At 05:03 PM 5/13/99 -0400, you wrote: >Dear List - > >I've been asked to restring a 1972 Hamburg Steinway "B" and a 1921 NY >Steinway "L" in the customer's home. > >The pianos both have very loose pins, and the wire has lost its resilience >and tone (plain and wound strings). The instruments don't stay in tune for >any appreciable length. Both have original tuning pins. > >Should I go up to a 4/0 pin, or will a 3/0 suffice? How do I make the >determination? >Any recommendations about tuning pins? I like the Japanese ones in Yamaha, >but would they work in the Steinway blocks? >Pin driving fluid? Source, or if make-it-myself, what is a good formula? >I assume that damper felts will need to be replaced. Is this true? Cut my >own, or precut from S&S? >The actions will need regulation; the hammers will need filing and voicing. >Anything to look out for given the new wire? > >Thank you in advance for any replies or comments. > >Sincerely, > >Tom Sheehan >RPT - NYC Chapter > > > Roger Jolly Balwin Yamaha Piano Centres. Saskatoon/Regina. Canada.
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