Bridge pin problem. Wurlitzer C173

Ron Nossaman nossaman@SOUTHWIND.NET
Tue, 25 May 1999 07:45:30 -0500 (CDT)


At 08:51 PM 5/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>The piano is a new Wurlitzer C173,  5'8" grand.  It has a bridge pin
>problem in the high treble.  The center pin on the speaking side of the
>note has either been drilled incorrectly or has moved over so that it's
>nearly against the right side unison string. At this time it doesn't
>seen to effect the tuning of the note. However Balwin is willing to pay
>for the repair. Without pulling the pin I can't  tell if the wood around
>the pin may have been defective or as I mentioned the pin was drilled
>incorrectly. I have a digital picture "jpg" format if anyone would like
>to see the problem.  
>
>My thought at this time is that the area around the pin should be
>drilled to about 1/4" and a hard wood plug installed. The plug would
>then be cut to match the termination line and curve of the bridge. This
>would eliminate the possibility of a defect in the bridge material
>causing the problem in the first place.  There does seem to be enough
>clear area in the center of the three strings to just  drill the darn
>hole again.  Of course plug the off course one. I would like the groups
>thoughts on this.. Have you seen this before on a new piano?  Quality
>control sticker is about 3" away on the plate.. Oh well! Must have been
>a long day.. Anyone in Central Illinois like to do the repair? I won't
>because it's my piano and it's under Balwin's warranty. They gave me
>option of fixing it myself or getting someone to do it. Either way they
>will pay for the repair.
>
>


Years back, there was a run of a certain model of "Famousname" vertical
pianos that had the bottom bridge pins in the low tenor mislocated to the
point that they didn't even touch the strings. They whanged like a Dobro on
a medium to hard blow. I've had good luck pulling the pin, driving in a shoe
peg with a little CA, trimming it flush, cleaning up the notch, saturating
the end grain of the peg with more thin CA, leaving it to harden, and re
drilling for a new bridge pin. The CA soaked into the peg solidifies it
enough that it doesn't crush under string pressure in use, though it darkens
the end grain and makes the repair more visible. I haven't found anything
else that works quicker or better.

 Ron 



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