Jim Coleman, Sr. wrote: > Hi George: > > Driving in the pins only increases the tightness at the very bottom of > the tuning pin, and only lasts for a short while. I have some clients that have gained 15 years on very loose pins bydriving them in. True, it does not always last 100% of time but its quick, cheap, & low risk, so has its place in the bag of tricks. I think it does not last when there is cracking and driving in forces the crack. When the pins are on loose side, but nothing stands out its a valid choice. When a single pin is very loose, the crack should be filled or plugged. > Many people decry the pinblock restorer approach saying that it ruins > the pinblock. Hey, the pinblock is already ruined, the pinblock restorer > can only help in situations where the client cannot afford to replace > the pinblock. I've seen a few treated pinblocks that were rotted with the retainedhumidity a decade later: back, spongy, & rotten around pins. Some of these pianos had pinblock cracks & so made no difference. But some had no evidence of cracking. I think if modestly oversize pins were used, the wood would not have rotted and the piano still be tunable instead of thrown out. Exposure to a number of these cases has left me shy of treating the wood. I'm sure it could be part of my kit, but I'm afraid of doing unessesary damage. Driving pins, oversize pins, filling, plugging, & emery paper doesn't seem like so much trouble so as to resort to fluids. One day I will convinced to do it to some beastly upright that is undeserving of much time but it hasn't happened yet.(17years). Tell me I'm wrong, it would often save some time to juice the beastly. The few cases I shared just makes me stop short. > A better approach for those is the epoxy or CA glue approach which has > been belabored abundantly on this list during the past year. > I must get around to trying this. Thanks Dave Renaud RPT Canada
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